St Emilion and Les Chateaux de Bordeaux
Following a very pleasant and peaceful evening alongside in Bordeaux we set off this morning immediately after breakfast to explore further inland. The day was overcast and grey but very warm as we boarded the coaches which would take us over the bridge, out of the city of Bordeaux and, eventually, to the Dordogne River. Soon after leaving the urban environment of Bordeaux we found ourselves passing through acre upon acre of vineyards. Our guides went into some detail regarding the cultivation of the grapes and their great importance to this area. However our destination was not a vineyard, at least not this morning, but the incredible little town of St Emilion, set on the lime-stone hillside overlooking a vista of green vineyards and reddish-brown roof tiles.
Due to the narrowness and steepness of the ancient streets of this village we left the buses outside the old town wall and walked into the village proper. En route our guide took us into the church, medieval but still in use; to the old cloisters, not so much in use but still worth seeing; to the old belfry with its panoramic views and, eventually down the steep, cobbled stone streets to the maze of paths and lanes below. The highlight for most of us was the exploration of the ancient and dimly-lit catacombs which lead directly into an entire church that had been cut into the sold rock, in one piece as it were, and carved and painted inside with Christian motifs and frescoes. This truly astonishing feat took some 300 years to complete and it is still a place of soft peacefulness and an awe-inspiring atmosphere. When we eventually stepped outside into the spaciousness of the open square the daylight seemed positively radiant despite the overcast skies after the gloom of this ancient monolith church.
Following free time and a chance to shop in some of the enchanting little boutiques and stores we met afoot the belfry and took the coaches back to Endeavour for lunch. There was no time for a post-lunch nap today though, as we were soon back aboard the coaches and heading towards various chateaux for wine-tasting. For the first time the coaches did not travel in convoy but rather we went our own separate ways and visited a different vineyard and chateau each. At the various stops we were given an explanation of the mysterious process of growing good wine grapes successfully. This was followed by a layman’s explanation of the alchemical processes involved in transforming a small dark, grape into a sparkling, ruby-coloured glass of heady wine. The proof of the success of this, and the skill of a master winemaker, was to be had in the delicate glasses of samples we enjoyed as the finale to our visit to this famous wine-growing area of France.
But it was not the finale to Bordeaux! A surprise aft-deck cocktail party with appetizers – oysters, fresh bread and local cheeses – had been prepared for us by the hard-working Hotel and Catering Staff. This social event was timed to coincide with the casting-off of the lines as Endeavour slipped out into the fast flowing current of the incoming tide and gracefully left behind on the quayside a waving and cheering crowd of Sunday strollers.
The flavour and atmosphere of Bordeaux were noticeably different from those of Normandy and Brittany. Tomorrow will see us entering Basque country and, no doubt, new experiences and perceptions.
Following a very pleasant and peaceful evening alongside in Bordeaux we set off this morning immediately after breakfast to explore further inland. The day was overcast and grey but very warm as we boarded the coaches which would take us over the bridge, out of the city of Bordeaux and, eventually, to the Dordogne River. Soon after leaving the urban environment of Bordeaux we found ourselves passing through acre upon acre of vineyards. Our guides went into some detail regarding the cultivation of the grapes and their great importance to this area. However our destination was not a vineyard, at least not this morning, but the incredible little town of St Emilion, set on the lime-stone hillside overlooking a vista of green vineyards and reddish-brown roof tiles.
Due to the narrowness and steepness of the ancient streets of this village we left the buses outside the old town wall and walked into the village proper. En route our guide took us into the church, medieval but still in use; to the old cloisters, not so much in use but still worth seeing; to the old belfry with its panoramic views and, eventually down the steep, cobbled stone streets to the maze of paths and lanes below. The highlight for most of us was the exploration of the ancient and dimly-lit catacombs which lead directly into an entire church that had been cut into the sold rock, in one piece as it were, and carved and painted inside with Christian motifs and frescoes. This truly astonishing feat took some 300 years to complete and it is still a place of soft peacefulness and an awe-inspiring atmosphere. When we eventually stepped outside into the spaciousness of the open square the daylight seemed positively radiant despite the overcast skies after the gloom of this ancient monolith church.
Following free time and a chance to shop in some of the enchanting little boutiques and stores we met afoot the belfry and took the coaches back to Endeavour for lunch. There was no time for a post-lunch nap today though, as we were soon back aboard the coaches and heading towards various chateaux for wine-tasting. For the first time the coaches did not travel in convoy but rather we went our own separate ways and visited a different vineyard and chateau each. At the various stops we were given an explanation of the mysterious process of growing good wine grapes successfully. This was followed by a layman’s explanation of the alchemical processes involved in transforming a small dark, grape into a sparkling, ruby-coloured glass of heady wine. The proof of the success of this, and the skill of a master winemaker, was to be had in the delicate glasses of samples we enjoyed as the finale to our visit to this famous wine-growing area of France.
But it was not the finale to Bordeaux! A surprise aft-deck cocktail party with appetizers – oysters, fresh bread and local cheeses – had been prepared for us by the hard-working Hotel and Catering Staff. This social event was timed to coincide with the casting-off of the lines as Endeavour slipped out into the fast flowing current of the incoming tide and gracefully left behind on the quayside a waving and cheering crowd of Sunday strollers.
The flavour and atmosphere of Bordeaux were noticeably different from those of Normandy and Brittany. Tomorrow will see us entering Basque country and, no doubt, new experiences and perceptions.
