The Azores

Low scattered clouds were lit from below with the sunrise as we skirted the coast of Graciosa this morning. For those in our group who boarded yesterday, the gentle roll of the ship aided in a peaceful night’s sleep and helped remedy the jet lag. Near the end of breakfast, there was an announcement that dolphins were seen close by and we flocked to the bow with cameras and binoculars in hand. While these playful and acrobatic marine mammals are unpredictable and often pass quickly, several stayed with the ship for quite some time, riding the pressure wave at the bow. As they surface for a breath of air, they seem to relish the excuse to leap and perform while we oooh and aaah.

Blustery winds combined with lumpy seas from hurricane Karl made for an untenable landing on both coasts of Graciosa. The decision was made to reposition the short distance to the island of São Jorge. Along the way more marine mammals were spotted and the ship changed course to maximize our chances to see them up close. At first it was thought that they might be pilot whales but they proved to be an even more interesting species, Risso’s dolphins. One of the distinctive features of this animal is that as they age they become lighter in coloration, making the oldest ones nearly white. Three times the ship circled, affording everyone good looks.

Once alongside in the town of Velas on São Jorge, we boarded busses for a twenty-minute ride to the park near the western end of the island. Here we broke into smaller groups for interpretive walks with the natural history staff. Stately groves of trees provided shaded paths, and flowers in vivid bloom drew our attention, begging to be photographed.

Upon our return to town, there was time to stroll through the cobbled streets. The shops were shuttered but some of us found comfortable chairs in a cafe for a cool beverage and pleasant chatter with locals.

We cast our lines before dinner and set a course for Flores and Corvo, the two islands that mark the very western reaches of Europe.