São Miguel Island, Azores

The Azores are enchanting black lava islands painted green by vegetation, highlighted by wildflowers. They are little known places of rugged sea cliff scenery, of wind, ocean and seafaring history; with volcanic valleys, lakes and calderas; a land of farming, fishing and Portuguese traditions. We had set out a week ago on our crisscrossing explorations of this captivating Atlantic archipelago at São Miguel and have now made our way back to this flagship isle.

Pink belladonnas and bluish hydrangea hedges florally colored the green sculpted volcanic landscape on our tour of central São Miguel. A myriad of miradouros, those quintessentially Azorean scenic overlooks, were found along the coast. At Europe’s only tea plantation, we sipped teas grown and processed on site with rows of tea terraces rolling behind us. With the right mix of sunlight, soil and humidity, the plants thrive here. The various varieties, from top-shelf Orange Pekoe to poor man’s Broken Leaf, are all derived from different leaves of the same plant.

Descending into one of the island’s calderas, we found the fumaroles of Furnas. Here we walked from the volcanic town’s smoking vents to the beautiful deco-era Terra Nostrum gardens, where people rejuvenated in a spa-like volcanic pool and pondered exotic birds in idyllic pond scenes. Furthering the week’s culinary adventures, we enjoyed a delicious and unique lunch of volcanically steamed stew, cozido nas caldeiras. Along the smoking shores of Lake Furnas, we watched as large buried pots of layered meats and vegetables were unearthed from volcanic vents. The sausages, chicken, pork, beef, kale, cabbage, carrots and potatoes stew for six hours in their natural juices, providing a tasty meal.

We continued through the scenic view-studded island, making a last stop at Vila Franca, where we observed a small fishing dory return with a catch of squid, before returning to the capital town Ponta Delgada for farewell celebrations aboard the Endeavour. We have ventured this week throughout this little known Mid-Atlantic island group, gaining appreciation and knowledge of its volcanic landscape, oceanic setting, culture, history and place as Europe’s most westernmost outpost.