South Isabela Island

As we pulled up anchor, just before dawn, and sailed south from Punta Espinoza, Fernandina, a soft breeze blew up. The sun rose from behind the volcanoes of Isabela and the sky was clear and blue; it looked like it was going to be a hot and sunny day. We disembarked with water bottles and good hiking shoes for the long walk, prepared for the heat. Suddenly clouds blew in and began to cover the bright shiny sun. We were delighted that our walk was much cooler and fresher than we had expected.

We scrambled over lava boulders along the shore and later observed, with amazement, several coral heads that were a quarter of a mile inland. The naturalists explained that Urvina Bay had been uplifted in 1954. Inland we found huge colorful land iguanas and a curious juvenile hawk. Those who opted for the short hike also found iguanas and the hawk, and they observed the flowers of the Galápagos cotton and Cordia lutea plants which were being pollinated by dozens of busy carpenter bees. Back at the beach we eagerly plunged into the cool water for a refreshing swim.

In the afternoon, the winds picked up and blew hard out of the south west. We were told that this is strange weather for November. An El Niño has been predicted, but whether or not the heavy rains will soon begin remains to be seen. The land birds are behaving as if they are preparing to breed. They have been singing gaily and are very active. In the highlands we noted that the plants are changing colors, from grayish to a light green as they leaf out following the first showers of the season. Plants in Galápagos must run through their reproductive cycle quickly: blooming, fruiting and producing their seeds during the short and sporadic rainy season.