Northern Isabela and Fernandina Islands

Once again I awoke the guests who are traveling with us this week on the MS Islander early: at 6:15 a.m. I made an optional early wake up call. Here on the equator, daylight comes early and the sun rises and sets year round plus or minus about twenty minutes before and after six o’clock. We have a group on board who are eager to see and do all that we offer, so many were on deck early today. Almost immediately the early risers were rewarded with sightings of common dolphins. These graceful marine mammals were busy feeding and stayed for the most part under water. But there were some individuals who must have already had luck with their fishing and they leapt wildly just off our bow.

Naturalist Bitinia spotted a tall, strong whale spout ahead. The officer on watch slowed the ship and about 15 minutes later we got a great view of a huge fin whale spouting, rolling its huge back and small dorsal fin through the waves, and then throwing up its strong flukes as it dove right off our bow.

Wow! What a wonderful start for the day – but it was far from over, as all this took place before breakfast. After the meal we gathered in the bridge and watched the GPS as we crossed the equator and soon had spied another whale spout. This time we were watching a small Bryde’s whale. During the Zodiac cruise at the base of the spectacular cliffs of Punta Vicente Roca, we found a group of 13 fast moving penguins in the water, a couple penguins drying out on the shore, flightless cormorants, dozens of sea turtles bobbing in the cool green waters, mola mola (pelagic sunfish) and one group observed a crafty tabby cat hidden in an eroded cave on the tuff cliffs. But the highlight was finding a whale shark that swam lazily in front of one Zodiac, circled the second Zodiac and rose just in front of another! This tremendous and rarely seen creature then disappeared into the depths and we were left open mouthed and delighted with our continuing good luck!

Today’s lunch was a spectacular affair; a traditional Ecuadorian buffet with dishes from both the coast and the highlands. We tasted and tried it all and definitely were ready for the equally traditional “siesta” afterwards.

Our siesta was cut short by the call for snorkelers – and the outing was incredible: our guests found many sea turtles, an octopus, and swimming cormorants. The afternoon visit to Punta Espinoza was fabulous, too. The trail wound across broken plates of lava and areas of black volcanic sand and we saw more marine iguanas than we really ever hoped to see. Several black endemic Fernandina lava lizards darted between our feet, we watched sally light foot crabs mating, we found lazy, resting sea lions and feeding and nesting flightless cormorants.