Mekong River, Cambodia & Vietnam

Perhaps it was fitting that after a heavy day of confronting the somber realities of the Khmer Rouge period in Phnom Penh, guests were afforded a day of rest aboard Jahan. Many of us simply sat and enjoyed the breeze on deck after breakfast. Some read and some carried on conversations about the Cambodian experience which was now coming to a close. A few guests took advantage of a tour of the boat: behind-the-scene areas, engine room, kitchen, etc.

It was time to learn about our next destination. A presentation from our expert Gordon Longmuir covered the history of Viet Nam, its southward push in centuries past, and more recent periods of turmoil, ending with an assessment of where the country is now. It was a succinct summary of the turbulent times the people of Viet Nam had survived with hopes for it to become the next Asian Tiger as it joins the global economy. This was followed by a video of a journey through the country, produced for PBS some years back, but still offering a glimpse of what awaits beyond the frontier with Cambodia.

Throughout the day, guests kept coming on the deck to enjoy the passing scenes. Cambodia: gentle, quiet, peaceful, sparsely populated. Then the cruise into Viet Nam: houses closer to the edge of the Mekong, densely built, an animated contrast to what we left behind.

More than a dozen guests joined the Jahan’s chefs to learn how to make spring rolls, getting to know Southeast Asian culinary ingredients and techniques. Afterward we learned about the arts in Viet Nam through the 20th century—from the time of the establishment of the School of Fine Arts by the French in the 1920s to the years where artists functioned as contributors to state propaganda. Guests also learned of new themes in more recent periods, and efforts by younger artists to probe the transition of Viet Nam from a tradition-bound agricultural, socialist country to one which is fast catching up with the capitalist world outside.

The pre-dinner presentation was from our tour guides for the Viet Nam portion. Tri and Son delighted the guests with their sense of humor as they showed images of the Mekong Delta, a life among boats and floating markets, fish farms and more promises for the next few days.

Meanwhile, a recap of the Cambodian history was provided after dinner in the form of the movie The Killing Fields, recounting the difficult experiences of journalists Dith Pran and Sydney Schanberg of the New York Times following the Khmer Rouge rise to power.