Cape Flora and Bell Island, Franz Josef Land
Early in the morning the ship started moving from the quiet anchorage where we had spent all of yesterday and much of the polar night. A few people were awake as the magnificent scenery of Rabini Rock back-dropped with fog pouring over ice cap glacier passed off the stern. Ahead was more fog and we soon were engulfed again. However the day eventually brightened as we moved to one of the very southern most points of land in the archipelago, Cape Flora on Northbrook Island. As we came around the corner of the island there was a strong easterly wind blowing away the fog but producing sloppy waves on the exposed shoreline.
From a distance we could see a unique feature of the area, lush green, brown, and red hues covering the landscape from the bottom to just below the vertical cliffs. Such lushness we have been told by Maria is a result of fertilization by populations of seabirds nesting on the cliffs and in the scree slopes. The birds feed on marine life then transport the nutrients through their droppings to the land below the inaccessible cliffs. Countless numbers of individuals over decades of accumulation has produced an abundance of vegetation. However we would not be able to land at this spot for two reasons – first the swell and waves were too much but secondly a Polar Bear was relaxing serenely about half way up one of the green slopes. The bear’s whiteness stood out against the dull earth tones of the landscape. The Captain pulled the ship in close enough so that with binoculars we could pick out an old cabin and a monument. This was the spot where the British Leigh-Smith Expedition of 1881-82 over wintered. Then later the Jackson-Harms Expedition of 1894-97 stayed and during that time met up with Nansen and Johansen.
After moving for about an hour we found relatively calm sea conditions and clear skies at Bell Island. On a flat corner of the island we could see from the ship the remains of a wooden hut. Helicopters were quickly energized to transport us to a spot near the hut. On shore we learned about the historical significance of the building. This significant structure was called Eira Lodge by the Leigh-Smith Expedition members. Steve MacLean also discovered some very interesting graffiti from other early explorers of both poles, testament that structures such as this played an important part in the survival of the rugged people exploring these desolate lands. We split into groups and walked across the relatively flat land, vegetated in spots. A very interesting find which Steve was also quite excited about was a hatch of arctic midge flies. How an insect could survive in such a harsh environment was a common question.
As we returned to the ship the scenery was spectacular with the ship anchored off the face of a tidewater glacier and ice cap bordered by a lush cirque bowl tucked below towering rugged rock ridges. Below the slopes of the land was an inviting sandy beach. This beach provided us with an afternoon activity. The land beckoned to be explored and walked over so the Zodiacs were lowered during lunch. Arriving on the beach the staff skillfully got us ashore without getting wet even with a small surf breaking. Although the surf made landing tricky, it also made for a very picturesque scene which many people snapped images for their memories. Once everyone was on the beach groups were formed, two took for the cirque going inland and up a slope. Although requiring some expenditure of energy to get higher on the land, it was well worth the effort as the view was breathtaking and the plants exciting for those interested in crouching down or flopping down to investigate closely. One group also took a short hike where they discovered tracks of a lone Arctic Fox and a lovely stroll along the sandy beach. In the evening we enjoyed a deck BBQ while anchored off this arctic scene of ice, rugged geology, and clearing skies.
Early in the morning the ship started moving from the quiet anchorage where we had spent all of yesterday and much of the polar night. A few people were awake as the magnificent scenery of Rabini Rock back-dropped with fog pouring over ice cap glacier passed off the stern. Ahead was more fog and we soon were engulfed again. However the day eventually brightened as we moved to one of the very southern most points of land in the archipelago, Cape Flora on Northbrook Island. As we came around the corner of the island there was a strong easterly wind blowing away the fog but producing sloppy waves on the exposed shoreline.
From a distance we could see a unique feature of the area, lush green, brown, and red hues covering the landscape from the bottom to just below the vertical cliffs. Such lushness we have been told by Maria is a result of fertilization by populations of seabirds nesting on the cliffs and in the scree slopes. The birds feed on marine life then transport the nutrients through their droppings to the land below the inaccessible cliffs. Countless numbers of individuals over decades of accumulation has produced an abundance of vegetation. However we would not be able to land at this spot for two reasons – first the swell and waves were too much but secondly a Polar Bear was relaxing serenely about half way up one of the green slopes. The bear’s whiteness stood out against the dull earth tones of the landscape. The Captain pulled the ship in close enough so that with binoculars we could pick out an old cabin and a monument. This was the spot where the British Leigh-Smith Expedition of 1881-82 over wintered. Then later the Jackson-Harms Expedition of 1894-97 stayed and during that time met up with Nansen and Johansen.
After moving for about an hour we found relatively calm sea conditions and clear skies at Bell Island. On a flat corner of the island we could see from the ship the remains of a wooden hut. Helicopters were quickly energized to transport us to a spot near the hut. On shore we learned about the historical significance of the building. This significant structure was called Eira Lodge by the Leigh-Smith Expedition members. Steve MacLean also discovered some very interesting graffiti from other early explorers of both poles, testament that structures such as this played an important part in the survival of the rugged people exploring these desolate lands. We split into groups and walked across the relatively flat land, vegetated in spots. A very interesting find which Steve was also quite excited about was a hatch of arctic midge flies. How an insect could survive in such a harsh environment was a common question.
As we returned to the ship the scenery was spectacular with the ship anchored off the face of a tidewater glacier and ice cap bordered by a lush cirque bowl tucked below towering rugged rock ridges. Below the slopes of the land was an inviting sandy beach. This beach provided us with an afternoon activity. The land beckoned to be explored and walked over so the Zodiacs were lowered during lunch. Arriving on the beach the staff skillfully got us ashore without getting wet even with a small surf breaking. Although the surf made landing tricky, it also made for a very picturesque scene which many people snapped images for their memories. Once everyone was on the beach groups were formed, two took for the cirque going inland and up a slope. Although requiring some expenditure of energy to get higher on the land, it was well worth the effort as the view was breathtaking and the plants exciting for those interested in crouching down or flopping down to investigate closely. One group also took a short hike where they discovered tracks of a lone Arctic Fox and a lovely stroll along the sandy beach. In the evening we enjoyed a deck BBQ while anchored off this arctic scene of ice, rugged geology, and clearing skies.
