Laggan Lock to Fort Augustus

For some reason I didn’t have any takers on my offer to kayak up Laggan Avenue this morning. Thinking it over there could have been several deterrents, the primary one being the early morning hour of departure: eight o’clock. This departure was a requirement for the Lord of the Glens at the Laggan Locks because we spent the night locked up inside! As the canal closes at 5:30 pm every afternoon, we are permitted to stay in our quiet chamber all night, snuggly moored with the stairway down for visits to the pub next door. However, this morning we moved on to allow canal traffic to move as well, and cruised down what is known as “Laggan Avenue”, one of the narrowest tree-lined portions of the Caledonian Canal. A second kayak option was offered, but the morning arrived a tad wet and damp, so a lazy beginning was had by all until around 10:00 am. By then the ship had taken her first step down from our highest altitude in Lock Oich (106 feet), by passing through Cullochy Lock. By mid-morning we had arrived at Kytra Lock where despite rain and some wind, quite a few hearty walkers chose to get off and walk the last 2.3 miles into Fort Augustus.

The canal visitor center, small stores and a set of five descending locks in the middle of town are all gathered together here. A short walking tour oriented everyone before lunch, and afterwards we climbed on board our coach and headed off to see the famous Urquhart Castle of Nessie fame. Well, it is said that most of the Nessie sightings have occurred from this vantage point sticking out into Loch Ness. One campground nearby apparently sells (legally), Nessie-insurance in case of destruction of the campground by this dubious monster of the deep. The setting of the castle on the banks of the loch is unparalleled, and the low clouds and misty air gave an unsettling air to the place, all its history taken into consideration.

Just to keep us on our toes, as the coach pulled into Fort Augustus main street we were held up by traffic – sweet justice – since it was the Lord of the Glens, cruising through town as Queen Victoria did here in her time, the people staring, carriages (read: cars) lined up to gawk.

During dinner the sky cleared and the low light over flat Loch Ness had changed the ambience to serenity rather than mystery. To top off the evening, a pair of mute swans with their cygnets cruised past and stayed with us for a while.