Tobermory, the Isle of Eigg and Inverie
Tobermory was colourful and quiet on Saturday morning before the islanders on Mull started drifting in to do their weekly shopping and business. We took advantage of this by taking several walking options along the empty, warm streets. Despite its small size, Tobermory, the “Well of Mary” in Gaelic, has an abundance of history, monuments, interesting and quirky buildings and just sheer photogenic appeal.
We left Tobermory and the Isle of Mull during lunch and slid across the glassy waters en route out into the open waters and towards the Isle of Eigg. This stretch of water is known for its aquatic wildlife and today we were treated to the spectacle of a couple of minke whales and a splendid basking shark swimming lazily very close to the ship with its great black, triangular dorsal fin slicing the water.
The Isle of Eigg stood out against the skyline with the great volcanic ridge of The Sgeurr looming larger and larger as we approached. There is no village as such on Eigg. The hundred or so residents live in cottages scattered across the fertile island. Other than its beauty, Eigg is well-known in Scotland due to the actions of its then-residents who some 15 years ago broke the hold of tyrannical landlords and landowners by buying out the owner and for the first time in over 1,000 years returned ownership to the people who live, work and die there. This revolutionary move has resulted in massive changes in Scottish land ownership regulations – all for the better of the whole of Scotland.
When we left this idyllic little island community the wind had increased somewhat. The crossing back to the mainland was only just over an hour but for the first time since we left Inverness almost a week ago we really felt like we were on a ship. Our destination, Inverie on the Knoydart Peninsula, is tucked into the seldom visited Loch Nevis – a perfect shelter from the strong breezes on the open waters. Many places in Scotland are described as being remote but only Inverie can truly take that appellation. There are no roads connecting this tiny village with the rest of Scotland and the only way in or out is by small boat. But today the place was actually busy with many yachts of all sizes moored near the modern pier because today was the occasion of the Knoydart Highland Games. The pub, The Old Forge Inn (entered in the Guinness Book of Records as the most remote pub in the United Kingdom) was a hive of activity with happy sailors and athletes side-by-side enjoying the end of a long but pleasant day.
Tomorrow we will be leaving little Inverie and the Scottish mainland as we head towards the famous Isle of Skye and yet more adventures.
