Iona
Early this morning we left our moorings at Tobermory and sailed along the scenic sound of Mull for the ferry terminal at Craignure, a facility that has replaced the quay at Tobermory as the principal port of entry from Oban on the mainland to the Isle of Mull. By sailing over breakfast we shorten our journey on the single track roads across the island to Fionnphort, whence a short ferry crossing is made to Iona. That journey by bus is very scenic and we had the added advantage of the laconic but droll commentary from our driver Steve, that enabled us to see the wider world from an islander’s perspective. Although we kept a keen eye out for stags, sea eagles and other examples of the island’s celebrated wildlife, much of the terrain was shrouded romantically in mist so that at times our progress was slowed by heavy downpours of rain.
Iona seems always to have a sunny feel about it, however. The island is low enough for the rain-bearing clouds to transit to Mull before depositing their rain. There is the white granitic sand that lies under the shallow waters of the sound that reflects sunlight and makes an azure sea, an exception to the grey-green norm of Hebridean waters. The pink granite of the Augustinian nunnery reflects warm light as one makes the approach to the restored Abbey from the island quay. Of course, as a place of pilgrimage and retreat, the island is also of repository of spirit al values and generous hospitality. In short, Iona is a ‘good vibes’ place and the morning downpours gave way to sunny intervals in time for our arrival.
Iona is the island to which Columba brought the Christian gospel from Ireland in 563 AD. Although there is nothing left of Columba’s monastery save for bumps on the ground, the existing ecclesiastical buildings, mostly dating from the Norman period, testify to the site’s prestige and importance throughout the mediaeval period. In the graveyard beside the Abbey, Duncan and Macbeth were buried along with a succession of other Scottish kings, Lords of the Isles and the kings of Norway. We toured these sites before enjoying lunch in the St Columba hotel.
In the afternoon, en route back to Craignure, we called in at Duart Castle and were delighted to find the clan chieftain, Lachlan Maclean, in residence. We toured the castle, an imposing pile overlooking the sound of Mull, then returned to the ship to make for Oban, where we spent the rest of the day alongside, providing a few enthusiasts with the opportunity to taste the produce of the local distillery and buy the t-shirt.
