Floreana Island

Mentioning that we will be spending the entire day visiting one particular island, and the northern coastline exclusively, sounds rather limited. However, as everyone discovered quickly, there was more than enough to do.

Early morning had the Zodiacs cruising out over smooth waters towards the famous Post Office barrel. We left postcards and picked up letters for delivery in return. They were duly “stamped” by the local postmaster (the naturalists) before being placed inside the wooden barrel, a newer reincarnation of the original, inaugurated in the 1790’s by Captain James Colnett. Exploring the nearby lava flow islets known as the “Loberia,” we saw not only the sea lions for which they are named, but also a spiffy striated heron paid a visit to the bow of the Zodiac, where it remained quite serenely surrounded by people for a good ten minutes before deciding it was his time to get off the bus.

Snorkelling later in the morning was quite simply spectacular. As someone asked before entering the water, “What should we look for?” My answer was “Everything.” And everything was there: angelfish by the dozens, Creole fish, black durgeons, white-tipped reef sharks, barnacle blennies, black coral, sea stars of many colours, and of course, the sea lion youngsters who always steal the show.

It still wasn’t enough for some of us, so off to the “Devil’s Crown” we went for an afternoon snorkel. Dog snappers the size of dogs, fish in clouds, reef sharks by the dozen, and a humungous marbled ray under a shelf of rock. On shore at Punta Cormorant, flamingos could be seen in the light of the setting sun, while the calls of whimbrels and stilts were muted by the light rain that fell. The first I’ve felt this season, though the budding leaves of the Palo Santo trees indicate some has fallen in the past week or two.

Just before boarding the Zodiacs to the Islander, we noticed bright blue iridescent nudibranchs in the surf, their incredible beauty of their design and structure slowly stilled as they washed ashore. Meanwhile the photographers have discovered a yellow-crowned night heron stalking a ghost crab. Lorenzo catches the moment. In a few minutes the crab is swallowed and we return to the ship to watch the clouds absorb the sun. As it descends below the puffy horizon, we are surprised by a clear green flash…the first I’ve seen over clouds, and reconfirmed by others, so indisputable and on the record. Every day has something unique. Today has had so many.