Isabela and Fernandina Islands
We woke up quietly in calm waters off the northern shore of Isabela Island. Clear skies overhead were a joy to behold after the clouds of yesterday. Soon a pod of common dolphins mixed with spinner dolphins appeared to our starboard, and we were off to see them closer. The spinners were few in number, but occasional glimpses of their sleek bodies as they jumped clear of the water confirmed their identification. Meanwhile the common dolphins, by far the majority, leapt exposing the cream hourglass markings of their flanks.
Crossing the equator line was heralded by tooting the ship’s horn, after which Ecuador Volcano loomed closer, her immense flows of lava dwarfing the crashing breakers below. A Zodiac ride along the shores of Puerto Vicente Roca, at first seemingly barren of life, soon showed marine iguanas starting their scramble into the waters for their morning meal of algae, heads bobbing in the white-water of the surf. But not all heads belonged to the iguanas, we realized! Marine turtles were also after the wealth of algae fed by the up-welled nutrients of the South Equatorial counter current. Cruising further out, some of us spotted the dorsal fin of the large oceanic sunfish, with its body dimly visible below for just a moment before taking off for the deep. A manta ray put in a brief appearance as well, but soon joined its fellow denizen beneath the waves.
Snorkeling was mysterious as visibility today was limited; however green sea turtles were everywhere and cooperative from our point of view as they hung around, choosing choice morsels of algae to forage on, oblivious or just plain unconcerned at our proximity above. Even killer whales put in an appearance before lunch, but it was only a tease, as they disappeared soon after, never to be seen again as far as we were aware, despite miles of cruising in search.
The afternoon provided low light and rosy colours, as flightless cormorants, sea lions and marine iguanas went about fulfilling their survival needs…whether that be chasing each other from sea to land in nuptial desire, lolling in the gentle waves with flipper in air or basking in the remaining rays of light. We ourselves left the west at sunset. The Bolivar Channel offered once again calm waters as the silhouettes of Isabela Island’s volcanoes faded gently into the moonlit night.
We woke up quietly in calm waters off the northern shore of Isabela Island. Clear skies overhead were a joy to behold after the clouds of yesterday. Soon a pod of common dolphins mixed with spinner dolphins appeared to our starboard, and we were off to see them closer. The spinners were few in number, but occasional glimpses of their sleek bodies as they jumped clear of the water confirmed their identification. Meanwhile the common dolphins, by far the majority, leapt exposing the cream hourglass markings of their flanks.
Crossing the equator line was heralded by tooting the ship’s horn, after which Ecuador Volcano loomed closer, her immense flows of lava dwarfing the crashing breakers below. A Zodiac ride along the shores of Puerto Vicente Roca, at first seemingly barren of life, soon showed marine iguanas starting their scramble into the waters for their morning meal of algae, heads bobbing in the white-water of the surf. But not all heads belonged to the iguanas, we realized! Marine turtles were also after the wealth of algae fed by the up-welled nutrients of the South Equatorial counter current. Cruising further out, some of us spotted the dorsal fin of the large oceanic sunfish, with its body dimly visible below for just a moment before taking off for the deep. A manta ray put in a brief appearance as well, but soon joined its fellow denizen beneath the waves.
Snorkeling was mysterious as visibility today was limited; however green sea turtles were everywhere and cooperative from our point of view as they hung around, choosing choice morsels of algae to forage on, oblivious or just plain unconcerned at our proximity above. Even killer whales put in an appearance before lunch, but it was only a tease, as they disappeared soon after, never to be seen again as far as we were aware, despite miles of cruising in search.
The afternoon provided low light and rosy colours, as flightless cormorants, sea lions and marine iguanas went about fulfilling their survival needs…whether that be chasing each other from sea to land in nuptial desire, lolling in the gentle waves with flipper in air or basking in the remaining rays of light. We ourselves left the west at sunset. The Bolivar Channel offered once again calm waters as the silhouettes of Isabela Island’s volcanoes faded gently into the moonlit night.
