Santa Cruz and North Seymour islands

Today we awoke at the very heart of the Galápagos Archipelago as we anchored in Academy Bay, on the south side of the second largest island of the group, Santa Cruz. This large island, with its rich coastal waters and lush green highlands, was understandably the one that drew most inhabitants and is now home to over 12,000 “Galápagueños,” that live mainly off tourism, conservation, fishing and cattle farming. The island is also home to a healthy population of relics from another era: the giant tortoises, the presence of these in stark contrast to the familiar-looking agricultural areas!

After an early outdoor breakfast in the highlands, we set off on a variety of hikes to try and find these shade-loving creatures and were wildly successful, coming across more than a dozen that included both males and females, adult and sub-adult.

Our adventure continued as we returned to the Islander and completed a circumnavigation of Santa Cruz, spending the afternoon sailing up the east coast to reach a tiny islet named North Seymour, located directly north of Santa Cruz. Though tiny, it is home to many Galápagos creatures, such as boobies, frigate birds, swallow-tailed gulls, sea lions and iguanas, found here in astoundingly large concentrations. Many of these are active at the moment, with courtship and pair-bonding happening all around us, amongst the most unlikely of neighbours! The islet was so beautiful we stayed on shore to view the setting sun as the moon shone high in the sky behind us – a day full of unforgettable experiences.