Española Island

What to choose for a photo today was not easy. The day began with amazingly clear waters over white sand creating turquoise colours below blue skies. Two Zodiacs with snorkelers traveled to “Turtle Rock” to circumsnorkel the small islet. Completely calm sea conditions and 77-degree water temperatures made for a perfect combination, which we enjoyed for over an hour. Schools of salemas below tempted us to dive and pass through them, and when we did, they parted as a curtain and closed behind, above and below. Flounder, an octopus, surgeonfish and many more of our marine friends were present. The last hurrah before leaving Gardner Bay, however, was the arrival of a school of golden cowrays close to the beach; beautiful and majestic creatures, they flew in formation, occasionally snuffling the bottom for invertebrates and mollusks before cruising on.

The afternoon was also spectacular, in lighting and the presence of hundreds of blue-footed boobies in full breeding extravaganza, sky-pointing, foot displays, whistles, honks and eggs. Nazca boobies were also courting, and the colourful marine iguanas from this island were about in numbers, the females still digging nesting burrows, others filling them in, dozens along the trail dirty and seemingly exhausted from their travails. Galápagos hawks kept a quiet but sharp eye out for opportunities while sitting on the edge of the bluff, surrounded by the noises of life around them.

The outstanding sighting for the visit though, was the presence of three Galápagos waved albatross; two soared over the cliffs and one was seen on land, where in a few weeks (maybe less?) we expect to see them pairing up and laying the first eggs of the season. Although earlier than expected, the colder water currents we have been feeling during the last week could be the reason the sea birds have picked up the pace lately. For us, these are the first indications we are entering a changing season!