Santa Cruz Island and North Seymour

It was an early call for all of us, but as we all found out, well worth the extra effort. Buses were waiting to take us up into the highlands of Santa Cruz Island at the main dock of Puerto Ayora, located at the southeastern corner of the island. We drove through a town that was sleepily awakening, though the fresh market already had produce stalls out with greens and fruits brought down from the cultivated areas above. We drove through these areas as well, on our way to the Tortoise Preserve to look for the famed Galápagos giant tortoises wandering in the wild, tortoises that have followed established tortoise trails for generations, to and from water holes, through thick vegetation, around and over tree roots. We were successful, to say the least, in numbers of tortoises sighted, magnificent frigate birds bathing in the fresh water lagoon alongside pintails and coots, as well as escaping the worst of the heat. Just as the air became too sultry to be comfortable any more, it was time to go to breakfast where a breeze, good food, fresh fruit, coffee and a spectacular view were our rewards. A quick visit through a lava tube near the farmhouse kept us away from the sun for a little bit longer before heading back to town for shopping and/or sitting in a roadside café drinking a cool something.

The afternoon proved a spectacular success due to wonderful fortune in encountering bottlenose dolphins in the northern channel between North Seymour Island and Baltra. We spent a good long time in the Zodiacs alongside these delightful cetaceans before heading for shore. The late, long light shone softly on the land iguanas munching down tender new green shoots coming up from the latest rains, courting blue-footed boobies disputing nesting sites and the inflated gular pouches of magnificent and great frigate birds adding a unique sound to the repertoire around us. Even a red-footed booby was spotted sitting on a spindly branch in the distance!

Returning along the sandy beach at sunset was a highlight in the low light of day. Crashing surf with a red sun descending behind Daphne Island, sea lions surfing the crest. Could we have possibly asked for a better day?