Drake Passage

Strange. There is always sadness on departure. It is as if one cannot after all bear to leave this bleak waste of ice, glaciers, cold and toil…
- Fridtjof Nansen, 1912

National Geographic Endeavour’s bow has turned north, and we are re-tracing our steps back north to Ushuaia, Argentina, the “World’s End.” A sense of melancholy has set upon us, and despite the brilliant sunshine and graceful sea birds circling the ship, we feel as though we are missing something, something we just cannot put our finger on immediately, but the emptiness is there. This is the effect Antarctica has on people. It is a place which draws people in so intensely, it touches the soul.

These past nine days have shown us the incredible diversity that the Antarctic Peninsula has to offer. It is amazing that an area which is relatively small in the grand scheme of things, can offer so much. Endeavour has berthed herself into the sea ice, lowering a gangway allowing us to casually walk about and investigate the wildlife that is finding a place to rest on the floes. We have had countless encounters with penguins, entranced by each species' mannerisms and idiosyncrasies, and above all we have enjoyed the majestic diversity and beauty of the Antarctic Peninsula, with its brown volcano-formed islands and towering snow-covered mountains.

Another aspect of Antarctica we have been able to enjoy is the underwater realm, which is one of the least studied or seen places in the world. Dennis Cornejo, Endeavour’s Undersea Specialist, either dives or uses the ROV (Remotely Operated Vehicle) to bring back pictures for the guests aboard. It is here in Antarctica that some of the most resilient and strange creatures live. The Sea Spider for instance is an animal which is all “guts and gonads,” and in the male of this species has two tiny extra legs for carrying around the egg sack - if you look closely you can see it just underneath what we would call his belly. Weddell Seals are some of the most endearing creatures in Antarctica, as they always seem to remind people of their family dogs. It is difficult to resist the rolly-polly bodies and huge eyes which always look at you with a kind of sadness, entrancing us as we watch their lackadaisical actions in the water or on the ice.

As with all great adventures, our voyage has to end sometime. So with slightly heavy hearts, we look back towards the horizon, hoping for a final glimpse at an ice bergs or mountain top. Antarctica has touched us all profoundly, and whether we make the journey to her icy shores again or not, the memories will stay with us for a lifetime.