Petermann Island, Argentine Islands, Lemaire Channel

The wind dropped and the snow fell. Springtime in Antarctica can be unsettled with quick weather swings. Calm winds replaced the strong breezes of yesterday and thick snowflakes filled the air. It was a quiet soft morning as we approached the northern entrance of the Lemaire Channel. A rumor from another vessel in the area was ice blocked the narrows of the channel. If it had been blocked last night we found it to be wide open enough for us to easily pass through. The snow had thinned enough that we could see the lower sections of the near vertical walls of rock and glaciers lining the channel. Large beautiful icebergs were in the narrow section but the Bridge easily steered the ship around and out the southern end of the channel. The Captain had to continue avoiding the icebergs as we approached Petermann Island which would be our morning destination.

This island has served as a research site for Oceanites studies of Gentoo and Adelie penguins during Antarctic summers for the last 4 years. A small camp of 3 researchers were already on the island and greeted us as we landed on the rocks and snow shelf. Also greeting our landings were Gentoo penguins arriving, departing, and strolling at the island. We also arrived, strolled, and departed but during the middle activity we were able to see this wonderful spot of an island. The snow was crusted so walking was relatively easy.

Adelie penguins nested on one of the higher knolls of the island and since we had not had a chance to visit one of their colonies many trundled over a path led by some of the staff. There also was a cliff spot where Antarctic Shags nested and these were also the first we had gotten good looks at on land. Then there was a high saddle where an overlook to another bay could be enjoyed. Huge blue icebergs had blown into the bay creating a spectacular scene. Also we had a chance to visit with the three Oceanites researchers camped on the island. As the last of the observers passed the observed (courting Gentoo Penguins), the light snow fall gave a mystical feeling to the National Geographic Endeavour slowly treading water off the island waiting our return.

In the middle part of the day we travelled southward to the Argentine Islands where there is a Ukrainian research facility. Unfortunately brash ice had blown into the bay where the station was and our Zodiacs could not push through. Instead some of us ventured out in the Zodiacs to cruise amongst large sculptured icebergs, some almost the size of our ship.

To top off the day, the weather had improved and the snow stopped falling. Clouds parted to allow bright rays of sun to light up the Lemaire Channel. After dinner we travelled northward through the channel being able to see what had been clouded in snowflakes during the early morning. Above the steep jagged snow dusted ridges and peaks there was a half moon gleaming in the low evening Antarctic light. A fitting finish to a very special expedition day in Antarctica.