Drake Passage & Aitcho Island, South Shetland Islands, Antarctica
Today we awoke giving thanks that the Drakes Passage was being relatively nice to our travels toward Antarctica. However, the wind had switched direction during the night as a low pressure front moved toward us. A few hardy souls were on the Bridge first thing in the morning before breakfast searching for that first glint of angular white on the horizon. Last night the Captain presented a contest for any one spotting the first iceberg that was at least 10 times the size of our ship. Many people enjoyed the collection of birds following the ship and sweeping up and over the breaking waves. A few of the bird species had been with us north of the Antarctic Convergence but a few species heralded our official arrival to The Continent. A lone snow petrel was easily identified with its pure white plumage and black eyes and bill. A small number of of Antarctic Petrels mingled among the much more numerous Cape Petrels but could be identified by the more organised dark and light areas of the wings. Cape Petrels have a very random spotted coloration and darker head. Passing the first large tabular iceberg the Snow Petrel became disinterested in us and went to its more normal place circling the walls of the iceberg.
Our lunch was much more stable than it had been since we left the protection of the Beagle Channel. A mandatory briefing on behavior ashore and how to act while visiting the islands of Antarctica followed immediately after lunch. During this time some of the staff went ashore to check for the best landing location. The weather also cleared even though the wind did not abate significantly. By about 14:00 all onboard were anxious to get ashore to experience the first landing in the “White Continent”. Stepping off the Zodiacs onto a narrow pebble beach we were greeted by the helping hands of the staff and Gentoo Penguins hopping from the low surf to the snow covered land.
Onshore groups were escorted by the ship’s naturalist to visit the scattered penguin colonies and to hike across to other parts of the island. Almost everywhere there was snow and lots of it. The winter had produced large amounts of snow which formed drifts in valleys and behind hills. This created a problem for the nesting Chinstrap and Gentoo Penguins as there was very little bare ground for them to build the rock circles where their eggs would be laid. The activity of the birds was still courting and displaying for partners. Some birds were fighting over the few exposed small rocks available for nest construction. There was also a constant movement of birds from the shoreline inland or from inland nesting sites to the shore. One only had to sit on the hard packed snow and wait for a curious bird to walk nearby wondering why you were stationary. A large number of people wanting a longer walk were treated to views of a sleeping Weddel Seal near the path across the island. After a few hours ashore we also trundled down the snow slopes imitating the penguins' march down to the sea. By the time we were ready to leave, the tide had risen and the Zodiacs could ”dock” at the snow shelf and we could easily step into the boats for the short ride ashore.
One final activity of the day was to stop at King George Island in Maxwell Bay. Here Jon Bowermaster, the National Geographic writer and explorer off-loaded three large sea kayaks for a journey he would be taking later in the summer. A number of bases are located in this protected bay and the Chilean base was kind enough to store John’s kayaks until he would return to begin his adventure kayaking the Antarctic Peninsula. As many on board were entering REM sleep the ship got underway south toward our next special expedition destination.
Today we awoke giving thanks that the Drakes Passage was being relatively nice to our travels toward Antarctica. However, the wind had switched direction during the night as a low pressure front moved toward us. A few hardy souls were on the Bridge first thing in the morning before breakfast searching for that first glint of angular white on the horizon. Last night the Captain presented a contest for any one spotting the first iceberg that was at least 10 times the size of our ship. Many people enjoyed the collection of birds following the ship and sweeping up and over the breaking waves. A few of the bird species had been with us north of the Antarctic Convergence but a few species heralded our official arrival to The Continent. A lone snow petrel was easily identified with its pure white plumage and black eyes and bill. A small number of of Antarctic Petrels mingled among the much more numerous Cape Petrels but could be identified by the more organised dark and light areas of the wings. Cape Petrels have a very random spotted coloration and darker head. Passing the first large tabular iceberg the Snow Petrel became disinterested in us and went to its more normal place circling the walls of the iceberg.
Our lunch was much more stable than it had been since we left the protection of the Beagle Channel. A mandatory briefing on behavior ashore and how to act while visiting the islands of Antarctica followed immediately after lunch. During this time some of the staff went ashore to check for the best landing location. The weather also cleared even though the wind did not abate significantly. By about 14:00 all onboard were anxious to get ashore to experience the first landing in the “White Continent”. Stepping off the Zodiacs onto a narrow pebble beach we were greeted by the helping hands of the staff and Gentoo Penguins hopping from the low surf to the snow covered land.
Onshore groups were escorted by the ship’s naturalist to visit the scattered penguin colonies and to hike across to other parts of the island. Almost everywhere there was snow and lots of it. The winter had produced large amounts of snow which formed drifts in valleys and behind hills. This created a problem for the nesting Chinstrap and Gentoo Penguins as there was very little bare ground for them to build the rock circles where their eggs would be laid. The activity of the birds was still courting and displaying for partners. Some birds were fighting over the few exposed small rocks available for nest construction. There was also a constant movement of birds from the shoreline inland or from inland nesting sites to the shore. One only had to sit on the hard packed snow and wait for a curious bird to walk nearby wondering why you were stationary. A large number of people wanting a longer walk were treated to views of a sleeping Weddel Seal near the path across the island. After a few hours ashore we also trundled down the snow slopes imitating the penguins' march down to the sea. By the time we were ready to leave, the tide had risen and the Zodiacs could ”dock” at the snow shelf and we could easily step into the boats for the short ride ashore.
One final activity of the day was to stop at King George Island in Maxwell Bay. Here Jon Bowermaster, the National Geographic writer and explorer off-loaded three large sea kayaks for a journey he would be taking later in the summer. A number of bases are located in this protected bay and the Chilean base was kind enough to store John’s kayaks until he would return to begin his adventure kayaking the Antarctic Peninsula. As many on board were entering REM sleep the ship got underway south toward our next special expedition destination.
