Lindblad Assisting in the M.V. Explorer Rescue, Half Moon Island & Deception Island
Yesterday was such a great start to our Antarctic adventure. Who would have forecast the events we were to experience this morning? They do, however, remind us how fragile life can be. There are times when we marvel at the technological advances we have made and how they are instrumental in minimizing crisis and yet…
We were awoken with the news that our ship had responded to a distress call from the M.V. Explorer and we were on our way as fast as possible to the scene. By 05.45 we had sighted her on the horizon ahead of us. Over the next half hour she slowly loomed larger into view. Aft of us and making very good progress was a second ship, the M.V. Nordnorge, who had also responded to the distress call. Upon arrival both ships were confronted to a most sad sight. In the grey waters, occasionally dotted by an iceberg, we were able to count the Explorer’s four lifeboats and her eight Zodiacs. On these were all 154 souls who had been aboard. The Little Red Ship, as many of us had lovingly called her, was listing badly to starboard. The rope ladders and steel cables on her port side seemed like lacerations to her hull.
Within a very short time (a tribute to the wonderful seamanship of the Captains and crew from both ships), all those in lifeboats and Zodiacs were safely on board the Nordnorge, finding warmth and hopefully some comfort from their ordeal. We then set off to pay a final tribute to this remarkable little ship. She was for so many years the Lindblad Explorer, and during those years she and all aboard her traveled to the farthest reaches of the planet and set the standards for all expedition ships to follow. Seeing her like this was heart rending. And yet, if she was to end in this way, Antarctica was a most fitting resting place. Thank you Little Red Ship for being such a big part of so many lives.
With nothing more to do, both the Nordnorge and the Endeavour were officially released to proceed. Continuing our expedition as planned, we then set course to sail southwest along the South Shetland Islands; by mid-day we were off Admiralty Bay and en route to Half Moon Island. As we approached our landing we headed into driving winds and snow. Visibility was greatly reduced, yet just after three o’clock land appeared out of the storm and we found calmer conditions within the bay at Half Moon. We are greeted ashore by chinstrap penguins and a few gentoos. As we made our way up the snowy slope we are treated to a wonderful spectacle: chinstraps tobogganing down the slopes. As they picked up speed they lifted their wings and really "flew"! They (mostly) deftly navigated around fellow penguins and with clever use of the claws on their webbed feet were able to stop sharply before falling off the ledge and into the water. They then picked up a stone and made their way up again towards their nesting sites, which were still largely covered by snow. As we left this excellent landing we were treated to a hot chocolate with a little zip added to it.
Towards the end of dinner we made our way through Neptune’s Bellows and into the caldera within Deception Island. Our Captain took the ship close to Whaler’s Bay where we got a close look at the old whaling station and British Base. The winds were very strong, with an almost constant 40 knot velocity. We sailed to the western side of the caldera right up to the edge of a large field of fast shore ice. Even though the ice offers slight protection from the wind, the little waves were immediately topped and the frozen water was encrusted onto the surface. The whole effect was like watching an invisible force etch into the ice.
Yesterday was such a great start to our Antarctic adventure. Who would have forecast the events we were to experience this morning? They do, however, remind us how fragile life can be. There are times when we marvel at the technological advances we have made and how they are instrumental in minimizing crisis and yet…
We were awoken with the news that our ship had responded to a distress call from the M.V. Explorer and we were on our way as fast as possible to the scene. By 05.45 we had sighted her on the horizon ahead of us. Over the next half hour she slowly loomed larger into view. Aft of us and making very good progress was a second ship, the M.V. Nordnorge, who had also responded to the distress call. Upon arrival both ships were confronted to a most sad sight. In the grey waters, occasionally dotted by an iceberg, we were able to count the Explorer’s four lifeboats and her eight Zodiacs. On these were all 154 souls who had been aboard. The Little Red Ship, as many of us had lovingly called her, was listing badly to starboard. The rope ladders and steel cables on her port side seemed like lacerations to her hull.
Within a very short time (a tribute to the wonderful seamanship of the Captains and crew from both ships), all those in lifeboats and Zodiacs were safely on board the Nordnorge, finding warmth and hopefully some comfort from their ordeal. We then set off to pay a final tribute to this remarkable little ship. She was for so many years the Lindblad Explorer, and during those years she and all aboard her traveled to the farthest reaches of the planet and set the standards for all expedition ships to follow. Seeing her like this was heart rending. And yet, if she was to end in this way, Antarctica was a most fitting resting place. Thank you Little Red Ship for being such a big part of so many lives.
With nothing more to do, both the Nordnorge and the Endeavour were officially released to proceed. Continuing our expedition as planned, we then set course to sail southwest along the South Shetland Islands; by mid-day we were off Admiralty Bay and en route to Half Moon Island. As we approached our landing we headed into driving winds and snow. Visibility was greatly reduced, yet just after three o’clock land appeared out of the storm and we found calmer conditions within the bay at Half Moon. We are greeted ashore by chinstrap penguins and a few gentoos. As we made our way up the snowy slope we are treated to a wonderful spectacle: chinstraps tobogganing down the slopes. As they picked up speed they lifted their wings and really "flew"! They (mostly) deftly navigated around fellow penguins and with clever use of the claws on their webbed feet were able to stop sharply before falling off the ledge and into the water. They then picked up a stone and made their way up again towards their nesting sites, which were still largely covered by snow. As we left this excellent landing we were treated to a hot chocolate with a little zip added to it.
Towards the end of dinner we made our way through Neptune’s Bellows and into the caldera within Deception Island. Our Captain took the ship close to Whaler’s Bay where we got a close look at the old whaling station and British Base. The winds were very strong, with an almost constant 40 knot velocity. We sailed to the western side of the caldera right up to the edge of a large field of fast shore ice. Even though the ice offers slight protection from the wind, the little waves were immediately topped and the frozen water was encrusted onto the surface. The whole effect was like watching an invisible force etch into the ice.
