Tallinn, Estonia

During the night we slipped out of Helsinki’s harbor and began our short journey south to its closest neighbor Tallinn, capital of Estonia. Like Finland, Estonia has a rich and long history, but one fraught with oppressive neighbors and few periods of real independence and freedom. The two countries also share their ancestral Finno-Ugric language. However, it would seem at first glance, at least, that many of the similarities stop there.

We awoke this morning to similar conditions to what we left behind in Helsinki. Low, dark clouds hung over the bay and rain fell in intermittent bursts and drizzles. Yet, unlike sleepy Helsinki, we found Tallinn to be bustling with activity and people. Ten other ships, mostly the express, Viking line ferries from across the Baltic were berthed in the harbor. Locals and tourists alike busily made their way along the modern streets of the new city and the narrow passages of the old, medieval city. And while the outskirts offer up some fascinating wooden boroughs of unique architecture and of course the now famous amphitheater where the Singing Revolution began; it’s the heart of the old town that really identifies Tallinn as a special destination.

More intact than any of the other former Hansa trade ports we have visited to date, the center of Tallinn enchants its visitors with 800 year old churches, wall and tower defenses that still look battle-ready today, and perhaps most importantly a population that embraces its past whole-heartedly and with such joy that it feels as if you’ve walked through a small portal in time. Certainly, the port is no longer a secret destination for travelers, but in spite of the influx of more and more tourists, it remains a gem for the region and a highlight of any visit to the Baltic.

Sadly, we did have to leave Tallinn behind after a memorable morning within its city walls. We needed to be on our way for the next great stop, St Petersburg; the great former capital of Russia that ruled much of Baltic in its former glory and our destination beyond the cozy confines of the National Geographic Endeavour starting tomorrow.