Stockholm, Sweden

It was a magical arrival in Stockholm this morning by Zodiac along the pretty Djurgården Canal. The little waterway we followed through the old royal game reserve was so peaceful and rustic it seemed hard to imagine that one of the world’s great cities could be only a couple of miles away. We moved along slowly, in time with the morning, enjoying the dawn chorus of birds, looking out for the herons in the treetops, and appreciating the hazy sunshine that promised another fine day. There was only one thing missing, and that was soon supplied. As early as we’d left the ship, the hotel staff had left earlier still and were waiting up ahead with urns of hot tea and coffee and platters of chocolate croissants.

And then we rounded a final bend and downtown Stockholm sprang into view, with its gleaming yachts and ornate facades reflecting in the harbour. The city was just waking up, with a steady stream of cyclists moving along the waterfront and a gathering tide of traffic. While we’d taken the scenic way into town, National Geographic Endeavour had slipped in via the usual shipping lanes and stood awaiting us at the dock. After a hot breakfast aboard, we set off to explore the city.

First port of call was the Vasa Museum, to view the nearly perfectly preserved remains of the 17th century warship, Vasa, the pride of the Swedish fleet, which capsized on her maiden run in August 1628 after traveling less than a mile into Stockholm’s harbour. However disastrous her career as a warship, the Vasa has been a huge success as a time capsule, thanks to the particular preserving qualities of the Baltic Sea, giving archaeologists and visitors alike a fascinating glimpse into day to day life at sea in the 17th century.

Next it was on to Gamle Stan – the Old Town – and its labyrinthine streets and passages, some as narrow as three feet wide. It was the perfect place for a walking tour – cars are banned on these quiet cobbled streets, so we could meander at will, and marvel at the colourful old buildings without having to keep a weather eye out for traffic. Along the way we visited the Royal Palace – one of the largest in Europe, with 680 rooms, and still used by the Swedish Royal family – and the magnificent 13th century cathedral.

The rest of the afternoon and evening was spent at leisure, each of us finding our own ways to explore and enjoy the city, returning to the ship by Zodiac. The late sunsets at this latitude – just on ten o’clock this evening – and the long twilight afterwards made a tranquil end to the day, and a fitting conclusion to a visit to one of the world’s most peaceful cities.