Helsinki, Finland

Located on 5 small islands on the very doorstep of Finland's now tranquil capital city, the fortress Suomenlinna has seen plenty of action in the 260 years of its existence. Built in 1748 to protect the eastern approach to the Kingdom of Sweden from a Russian Empire that was flexing its might, this complex rock fortress with walls more than 20 feet thick (6 m) did its job well until 1808, when the better equipped Russians finally captured it. Despite bombing by the British during the Crimean War, the Russians held onto the fort until 1917, when Finland grabbed the opportunity for independence while the Great Bear was distracted by its own Revolution. The military significance of Suomenlinna (which means "Finnish Fortress") ended in 1983, but invaders still swarm the island in the form of picnickers, sunbathers, and anyone from Helsinki wishing to relax in beautiful park-like surroundings. We spent an enjoyable morning exploring the battlements and bird watching from the ramparts before returning to Helsinki just prior to the arrival of the many local boats. Under sunny skies and fair winds, the afternoon saw us moving westward to explore the heart of the country that once dominated northern Europe: Sweden.