Isabela & Fernandina Islands
The National Geographic Endeavour crossed the equator towards the northern hemisphere. Having an early whale watching time, we searched among the calm waters, rich in upwelling cells. Lucky were our searchers were when we spotted two blue whales (very special sightings) accompanying us on a route towards the southern hemisphere again. King Neptune received us with an exciting celebration of crossing the equator, where we got permission to do it.
We finally anchored at Punta Vicente Roca, the head of the sea horse shaped island (Isabela). Our first outing invited us on a Zodiac ride along the titan cliffs of basaltic lava and tuff, holding rocky shores with fur sea lions, marine iguanas, and Nazca boobies. Surfacing the calm waters were some sea turtles. As we continued exploring the coastline, some interesting cave formations and collapsed cliffs were giving different shapes to the landscape. Out on the open sea we managed to find some Ocean sunfish (Mola mola) basking themselves on the surface of the ocean.
Our second outing was to transport ourselves to join many interactions of the sea life! YES, we went snorkeling! The northern part of Isabela holds a great variety of marine life. The water was a little murky because of the amount of plankton in it, but this usually brings around the whole marine food chain. We spotted some Pacific green sea turtles very close, Flightless cormorants diving for fish, and penguins swimming around us. It was quite a memorable experience.
We started navigating, this time to the most western island of the enchanted archipelago and the ocean blessed us again with its wonders, surprising us with a pod of many common dolphins flipping up in the air, greeting us and sharing the most enjoyable show of synchronized motions.
The ocean shared with us many rare species, and is was only about midday. We already had seen Mola molas, Blue Whales (rare, in danger of extinction) , common dolphins (not that common). Wow! What can I say? It was really breathtaking to experience all of this in the same day. The blue heart of the planet imprinted its beauty in our hearts!
The afternoon expedition brought us back in time to explore an island that shares the perfect taste of how the Galápagos were before humans got here! Fernandina received us well with calm waters. As soon as we landed on very young lava fields, the marine iguanas of this island showed up, just warming up and resting. Visible in large numbers, many were on top of the others to preserve body heat.
Sea lions were playing in the tide pools, cormorants were nesting on the lava, and sea turtles and rays were feeding in shallow waters left behind by the low tide. All this uniqueness of life was present, with a great landscape, under the eyes of the very strong father of the baby island – Fernandina Volcano. This strong father is one of the most active volcanoes in the islands and the whole world. We consider it the father of all the lava fields and basically the different habitats on the island.
The island of Fernandina, the pampered baby of the enchanted archipelago, transported us in time. It was very emotional just to experience ourselves in the middle of all the endemic creatures interacting with no fear. They paid no attention to us being there. It was life in its most natural stage, where pioneer species lead the settlement of some new ones all in a cycle of beauty and interactions with the island itself.
We can say that our day is preceded by the message it gave us among all the incredible moments we had, where science, emotions, innocence of nature and a great sense of respect towards it met together in a perfect balance.
