Española Island

Our day started with much anticipation as our previous day at North Seymour was incredible. All were excited as we landed at Española. Upon our group landing we encountered a major obstacle; our path was blocked by a female sea lion and her new-born pup. The sea lion may have been manageable, but after that the entire path was blocked by Española marine iguanas, all trying to warm themselves in the intermittent sun. We decided to step on a few boulders to the side so as not to disturb this menagerie.

Española is one of our oldest islands, with a mixed geological past which has produced a path that is 110% covered with boulders and this makes it a challenge to navigate the trail. Boulder terrain and wild creatures piled everywhere; this absolutely is an expedition. Passing two small beaches we find that the first sea lion pup was not the only one, as we pass no less than ten week-old pups either nursing or looking for their respective mothers (one was born within the last hour). Blue-footed boobies with chicks, Nazca boobies with eggs, tropic birds, and swallow- tailed gulls fill the trail with their presence.

Arriving to the southern cliffs we are treated to an incredible view and an encounter with various waved albatross. This majestic bird before us only nests on Española; nowhere else on earth. We are witness to pair bonding between various couples, which includes beak jousting, sky pointing, neck swaying, and a clumsy walk that defies description. All are content beyond compare as we try to understand what we have just witnessed.

The afternoon brings us overcast weather, but this will not dampen the spirit of our exploration. Various activities divide the group among the deep-water snorkeling, glass-bottomed boat, and one of the most beautiful beaches found on earth. Snorkeling from the Zodiac brings us close to young sea lion pups frolicking along the coast. The sea lions take a break from their busy schedule to blow bubbles at us and tease us, doing underwater loops and chasing after us. Eventually we all arrive to the beach where we are to finish our afternoon among approximately 300 sea lions lazing on a fine white sand environment. Hard to imagine what tomorrow will bring.