Fernandina and Isabela Islands
The Galápagos Islands were discovered by the Bishop of Panama, Thomas de Berlanga, in 1535. After his description to his emperor, Carlos V of Spain, the Spanish decided not to claim them. The environment was too hostile and not worth it for the Spanish interests. They would later be called Isulae de los Galopegos, or “Islands of the Tortoises.” The English visitors called them “Encantadas” or the “Bewitched Islands.” Navigation here was difficult due to the strong and variable currents.
This morning we woke up on the western side of the archipelago. Early in the morning we were standing on the outside decks. The scenery was already a huge change! Big shield volcanoes were surrounding us. Isabela Island is formed by five and a half volcanoes. In the distance we could see La Cumbre Volcano on Fernandina Island. All of the six volcanoes are active. The mist gave the islands the look of being bewitched, just as the English described them. And as the whalers did in the 1800s, we were looking for these amazing animals. The cold waters of Cromwell Current and the depth of the place provide the perfect conditions to find marine mammals. We got our reward—a whale was spotted in the distance! We couldn’t get close enough to recognize it but then we found common dolphins as well!
We anchored at Fernandina Island and disembarked to explore Punta Espinoza, the only visitor site on this pristine island. Hundreds of marine iguanas were basking on the new lava fields. Sea lions were feeding their babies, lava lizards were running from one side of the trail to the other. In the distance, standing on a dead mangrove branch, a Galápagos hawk was observing the activities of the other animals. This majestic bird is the top land predator of the islands.
Snorkeling in Fernandina is a unique experience; we swam with a lot of green Pacific sea turtles, Galápagos penguins and flightless cormorants, not to mention thousands of fish.
In the afternoon, just before our human history presentation, we heard the announcement of whales again! What appeared to be two Bryde’s whales were spotted by our officers on the bridge.
After hearing the crazy stories of the first settlers of “Las Encantadas,” we arrived at our next destination: Punta Vicente Roca on Isabela Island. We disembarked in our zodiacs to explore the shores of the largest land mass of the archipelago. We enjoyed of the fauna of the place and came back ready for our next activity, which is a life-changing experience: the crossing of the equator line! We celebrated this unique event with cocktails while enjoying an amazing sunset. The volcanoes, the light, the sea, and even the moon and the sun in the same sky… we couldn’t have asked for more!
These islands are a box full of surprises and today we were so happy to have opened that box! Tomorrow a new day is waiting for us with more unique events in this paradise on earth.
