Channels and islands of western Tierra del Fuego
Dawn at Magellan Strait: How many voyagers before us entered this passage and explored, investigated and charted its waters! We felt like them and followed their path. Tierra del Fuego extends beyond a spectacular coastline of cliffs and mountains covered with moss, algae and lichens of bright colors. Nothofagus forests clinging to the rugged land grow to notable heights in protected areas while they become small or are absent in areas battered by the never-ending winds that cross the Strait.
Yesterday we explored Seno Ainsworth and the receding Marinelli Glacier that embraces the lower slopes of the main peaks of Darwin Mountain Range. Part of the evening we cruised back through Gabriel Channel into the Magellan Strait and then southward into Magdalena Channel to continue our voyage to western Tierra del Fuego and the Beagle Channel. This strait is about 150 miles long and between eight and three miles wide at its narrowest point. It separates Isla Grande de Tierra Del Fuego from several smaller islands to the south. Its eastern portion is part of the border between Chile and Argentina. Darwin Sound to the west connects it to the Pacific Ocean. Three small islands (Picton, Lennox and Nueva) near the eastern end were the subject of a decade territorial conflict between Chile and Argentina; the treaty of 1984 recognized them as part of Chile.
The channel was named after HMS Beagle that was involved in two hydrographic surveys of the region in the early 19th century. During the first voyage, under the command of Philip Parker King, the Beagle's captain Pringle Stokes committed suicide and was replaced by Captain Robert FitzRoy. The second, under the command of FitzRoy, was the famous voyage that took Charles Darwin to this remote corner of the world and led to the formulation of some of the most remarkable aspects of his thought.
At night, MS Endeavour progressed through Cockburn Channel and heading south and east, we entered the Brecknock Channel. We sighted and passed many islands exposed to the strong dominant winds and continued our journey with a full view of the snow capped Darwin Mountain Range, the highest mountains in Tierra Del Fuego. Later we entered Ballenero Channel that took us to the western end of the Beagle Channel.
Our plan was to visit some of the numerous fjords that transversely cut the mountain range crowned by impressive side glaciers with names like Garibaldi, France, Italy, Germany, and Romanche. At mid-morning under low clouds and spells of rain and ice, we entered the narrow and deep Garibaldi fjord embraced by high cliffs and mountains covered in a temperate rainforest. There are also several side glaciers along the fjord with the Garibaldi Glacier at the head of the valley caving into the ocean. We observed two valley glaciers that meet to form a larger one and the rock debris along the sides of both glaciers merge to form a medial moraine.
As the Zodiacs touched the water, we could spot two Chilean dolphins, a few Chilean skuas and Blue-Eyed and Red-Eyed Shags that crossed the clear sky above us in rapid flights. Approaching the glacier, we sighted a young sea lion feeding among the floating ice. Near by a large waterfall, we sighted a large cavern. Enormous slabs that fell from the upper part of the cliff half obstructed its entrance near the water level. We speculated that ancient inhabitants of the area, which possibly arrived here on their fragile canoes constructed with tree bark, used this great cave as a refuge or habitation. Unable to explore the cave this time we located it precisely and maybe someday we will return and investigate the area. We continued approaching the glacier with Zodiac motors off, and spent a long time enjoying the beauty and silence of the place only broken by the occasional explosive sound of cracking ice.
The echo of slamming ice into the freezing cold waters reverberated on the cliffs of the fjord. This was a very moving experience and we wanted to stay longer but rain and lowering temperatures called for a return to the ship. After lunch, we prepared for our lecture on the Last Amerindians of Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego. We shared information on these extraordinary extinct cultures and explained a unique collection of old photographs taken in the late 1800s and early 1900s. While most of us joined at the main launch, Endeavour progressed towards the western end of the Beagle Channel.
Continuing our cruise down the Beagle Channel, we had a close look to Romanche glacier. The main mass is a hanging glacier, but a small, waterfall-like portion of the glacier drips down from the main mass forming a Piedmont glacier-a remnant of post-Ice Age retreat. Local records indicate that in the past 10 years Romanche receded considerably. Glaciers like Romanche do not have the ability to erode its base to the floor of the main valley (fjord). Thus, when the glacial ice melts the floor of the tributary valley hangs above. Like we could see at Romanche substantial amounts of water and waterfalls generally occur where the hanging valley meets the fjord.
Later in the afternoon, Max invited us to another Chilean wine tasting. Having had good weather and progress in our navigation back into the Estrecho de Magallanes, at recap our Expedition leader announced that we would continue to navigate the Strait to its end and circumnavigate Cape Horn, point of confluence of the great oceans. Weather permitting tomorrow we will land and visit the small Chilean Navy station and lighthouse there. This certainly is an unexpected and unique opportunity to touch ground at one of the most famous and remote places on Earth.
Late in the evening, while we navigated south we could see the bright lights of Puerto Williams and Ushuaia, the only two inhabited areas of this desolate land. Tomorrow after the visit to the Horn we will cruise back to these towns, many to prepare to continue into Antarctica and many others heading home after the most extraordinary visit to the Fjords of southern Chile.
Dawn at Magellan Strait: How many voyagers before us entered this passage and explored, investigated and charted its waters! We felt like them and followed their path. Tierra del Fuego extends beyond a spectacular coastline of cliffs and mountains covered with moss, algae and lichens of bright colors. Nothofagus forests clinging to the rugged land grow to notable heights in protected areas while they become small or are absent in areas battered by the never-ending winds that cross the Strait.
Yesterday we explored Seno Ainsworth and the receding Marinelli Glacier that embraces the lower slopes of the main peaks of Darwin Mountain Range. Part of the evening we cruised back through Gabriel Channel into the Magellan Strait and then southward into Magdalena Channel to continue our voyage to western Tierra del Fuego and the Beagle Channel. This strait is about 150 miles long and between eight and three miles wide at its narrowest point. It separates Isla Grande de Tierra Del Fuego from several smaller islands to the south. Its eastern portion is part of the border between Chile and Argentina. Darwin Sound to the west connects it to the Pacific Ocean. Three small islands (Picton, Lennox and Nueva) near the eastern end were the subject of a decade territorial conflict between Chile and Argentina; the treaty of 1984 recognized them as part of Chile.
The channel was named after HMS Beagle that was involved in two hydrographic surveys of the region in the early 19th century. During the first voyage, under the command of Philip Parker King, the Beagle's captain Pringle Stokes committed suicide and was replaced by Captain Robert FitzRoy. The second, under the command of FitzRoy, was the famous voyage that took Charles Darwin to this remote corner of the world and led to the formulation of some of the most remarkable aspects of his thought.
At night, MS Endeavour progressed through Cockburn Channel and heading south and east, we entered the Brecknock Channel. We sighted and passed many islands exposed to the strong dominant winds and continued our journey with a full view of the snow capped Darwin Mountain Range, the highest mountains in Tierra Del Fuego. Later we entered Ballenero Channel that took us to the western end of the Beagle Channel.
Our plan was to visit some of the numerous fjords that transversely cut the mountain range crowned by impressive side glaciers with names like Garibaldi, France, Italy, Germany, and Romanche. At mid-morning under low clouds and spells of rain and ice, we entered the narrow and deep Garibaldi fjord embraced by high cliffs and mountains covered in a temperate rainforest. There are also several side glaciers along the fjord with the Garibaldi Glacier at the head of the valley caving into the ocean. We observed two valley glaciers that meet to form a larger one and the rock debris along the sides of both glaciers merge to form a medial moraine.
As the Zodiacs touched the water, we could spot two Chilean dolphins, a few Chilean skuas and Blue-Eyed and Red-Eyed Shags that crossed the clear sky above us in rapid flights. Approaching the glacier, we sighted a young sea lion feeding among the floating ice. Near by a large waterfall, we sighted a large cavern. Enormous slabs that fell from the upper part of the cliff half obstructed its entrance near the water level. We speculated that ancient inhabitants of the area, which possibly arrived here on their fragile canoes constructed with tree bark, used this great cave as a refuge or habitation. Unable to explore the cave this time we located it precisely and maybe someday we will return and investigate the area. We continued approaching the glacier with Zodiac motors off, and spent a long time enjoying the beauty and silence of the place only broken by the occasional explosive sound of cracking ice.
The echo of slamming ice into the freezing cold waters reverberated on the cliffs of the fjord. This was a very moving experience and we wanted to stay longer but rain and lowering temperatures called for a return to the ship. After lunch, we prepared for our lecture on the Last Amerindians of Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego. We shared information on these extraordinary extinct cultures and explained a unique collection of old photographs taken in the late 1800s and early 1900s. While most of us joined at the main launch, Endeavour progressed towards the western end of the Beagle Channel.
Continuing our cruise down the Beagle Channel, we had a close look to Romanche glacier. The main mass is a hanging glacier, but a small, waterfall-like portion of the glacier drips down from the main mass forming a Piedmont glacier-a remnant of post-Ice Age retreat. Local records indicate that in the past 10 years Romanche receded considerably. Glaciers like Romanche do not have the ability to erode its base to the floor of the main valley (fjord). Thus, when the glacial ice melts the floor of the tributary valley hangs above. Like we could see at Romanche substantial amounts of water and waterfalls generally occur where the hanging valley meets the fjord.
Later in the afternoon, Max invited us to another Chilean wine tasting. Having had good weather and progress in our navigation back into the Estrecho de Magallanes, at recap our Expedition leader announced that we would continue to navigate the Strait to its end and circumnavigate Cape Horn, point of confluence of the great oceans. Weather permitting tomorrow we will land and visit the small Chilean Navy station and lighthouse there. This certainly is an unexpected and unique opportunity to touch ground at one of the most famous and remote places on Earth.
Late in the evening, while we navigated south we could see the bright lights of Puerto Williams and Ushuaia, the only two inhabited areas of this desolate land. Tomorrow after the visit to the Horn we will cruise back to these towns, many to prepare to continue into Antarctica and many others heading home after the most extraordinary visit to the Fjords of southern Chile.
