Santa Cruz group, Solomon Islands

Today found us exploring the remote Santa Cruz group of islands, isolated to the east of the larger islands in the main Solomon Islands group. After breakfast we explored the underwater world off the island of Tomotu Neo, and quickly became a hit for the local villagers. We were the first ship to ever explore near the village of Neo, and it certainly showed. As we discovered the excellent coral reef and huge bumphead parrotfish, the locals decided to look at us. A few hundred locals stood on shore, while others swam or canoed out to us, trying to figure out what these strange visitors were up to. Some islanders boarded our snorkel platform and enjoyed jumping off of it, or merely touching the rubber Zodiacs. Others boarded the glass bottom boat and were enthralled with what their reef looked like. Still more simply enjoyed staring at us and watching us flop around in the water with all of our specialized gear while they were outfitted in shorts, t-shirts, and a few goggles.

During lunch the ship repositioned into the protected bay near Nendo Island, and most of us went ashore in the village of Malo on Tomotu Neo to explore the local culture. Incredibly friendly people greeted us and we were treated to some very interesting traditional dances. One involved a boy dancing on top of a group of men, and then he climbed a betel nut tree, and finished by leaping onto the other dancers. Also very impressive were the rolls of feather money two women were wearing on their heads. Made from the red feathers of the crimson myzomela, these used to be a sign of incredible wealth in the local economy. A highlight for the locals was a Zodiac ride, and Ralph apparently set a world record for number of children in one Zodiac. It was hard to tell if the locals or we visitors were having more fun.

The day ended with a sunset cruise by the active volcanic island of Tinakula. As we approached, we could see smoke rising from the western side of the island, and the show increased as it got darker. Glowing red boulders came tumbling down the side, bursting into smaller chunks as they bounced their way down to the sea. It was much like a reverse fireworks display, as the boulders broke into smaller and smaller flaming pieces, spreading wider as they fell toward the ocean. To watch fresh rock falling into the sea, and thus the island slowly growing before our eyes, was certainly a fabulous way to end the day.