Pele Island, Mangaas (mainland Efate), and Lelepa Island

A beautiful day, with light clouds giving way to sun mid-morning, revealing the stunning turquoise colors of the ocean off Pele Island. Here we would spend a most relaxing time on shore at picturesque Piliura Village, one of four on this small island, whose population numbers around 500. Pele lies a short distance from the north coast of Efate Island, the most populous in Vanuatu and home to its capital, Port Vila. While some of us begin with a snorkel, and others a dive, those of us on shore have a variety of things to do in and out of the water. Perched on a beach shelter roof, a youth hails us with some conch shell trumpeting as the local Piliura string-band welcomes us in Bislama, Vanuatu’s Pijin lingua franca. An informative display concerning conservation activities has been set up at the landing by a young American Peace Corps volunteer, Chris, who is also doing his doctorate at James Cook University in Queensland; he is very close to the local people with whom he is working to raise conservation awareness among the ni-Vanuatu. Today is turtle-tagging time, and we see six of them, including two relatively rare hawksbills, awaiting release. Chris is hoping to raise $2100 today to complete a current project, and our guests, turned on by Chris’s enthusiasm and dedication, respond admirably, shrieking with delight as each turtle, free again, streaks off into the blue yonder, making the release ceremony a fitting climax to what is, for everyone present, a stunningly satisfying morning. The huge grins of Chris and his companions say it all as we take our leave.

Douglas Kalotiti, who is working on the large team associated with the Roimata burials, attempts to have the relevant sites placed on the World Heritage nomination list. Douglas comes on board at Pele to give us a post-lunch briefing on the afternoon’s activities on and around Lelepa Island, which lies on the western side of Efate. We will first visit the site of Roimata’s village, Mangaas, on the Efate mainland. Then its on to Leleppa Island to see Leles Cave. Here it is said that Roimata, the powerful chief, ‘took his last breath’ before being transported to nearby (aptly named) Hat Island, where there was a mass burial between 300-400 years ago. The island is uninhabited and not open to visitors because of the great significance of the mass burial site.

We wade ashore after lunch at a wonderful spot shaded by huge trees. Once assembled, we witness a lively re-enactment of Roimata’s successful uniting of the feuding peoples of the Efate region, and his instigation of clan exogamy, which has remained in place into modern times. We then tour the village site, a small distance inland and dominated by a huge banyan tree. There can be found an ancient stone wall,a magic stone, and two recently erected tamtams (slit drums) to mark the site of the old dancing ground. The ship in the meantime has repositioned close to our landing site on Lelepa Island, which is a steep, coral-rubble ribbon of beach edged in part by beautiful tamarisk trees. A long row of items for sale is attended by women from a local village, awaiting our return from the visit to Leles Cave. They are situated along an uneven, stony trail just above the sea, ending with a steep climb, during which the wise people pause and turn to take in the magnificent view across to Efate and the beach from which we’ve just come. The cave is massive, a result of volcanic activity eons ago, with rubble from a 2002 partial collapse close to the entrance – a reminder that we are in a zone of crustal instability. Our friendly and capable guides, armed with flashlights, take us in groups around the cave’s interior, which is well lit this afternoon by bright sunlight that streams in from the large entrance. Our guides indicate the petroglyphs and drawings that have been dated at up to a thousand years. As we emerge, dazzled by the light, we are again drawn to the magnificent sculptural forms that constitute the cliff-face, off-white and gray, and a real delight for our many photographers on this voyage. Back at the beach, it’s time for some shopping, a refreshing drink of coconut water, and more photo-taking as the sun sets over a rocky headland: small peaks jut from the ocean close to shore, pleading to be avidly captured, digitally or any which way. For the stragglers, there are many laughs to be had as staff members Bud, Richard and Mike juggle three baby coconuts each; somehow, all escape being brained by these spheres. Then its into the Zodiac and a profuse exchange of farewells with our gracious hosts on the beach.