Viwa, Fiji

The day started beautifully, with calm seas, blue skies and whales. An early wake up call from Bud brought us out on to deck to view a pod of short-finned pilot whales. About 50 animals lazed at the surface, occasionally spy-hopping to investigate the appearance of this strange new presence in their ocean realm.

Then we moved on to our first landfall in Fiji. The remote island of Viwa, in the north-west of the archipelago, is home to about 1,000 people living in three villages. It is only rarely visited by tourists, although a small resort is under construction on the island and will bring welcome employment. We were warmly welcomed with cries of ‘Bula’ from the locals on the white sand beach, and then a traditional kava ceremony in the large thatched bure. Then we were free to explore the village, chat with the locals and disrupt lessons at the school, much to the glee of the kids.

Then it was back to the ship and an afternoon of watersports in the warm, ultramarine, waters of the South Pacific. And as we cruised away from Viwa we had one final encounter with whales. Two minke whales cruising along at seven knots, seemingly intent on each other and oblivious of our presence on a parallel course. At times it seemed as if they were almost bow-riding they were so close – one more example of the excellent handling of the National Geographic Endeavour by our Captain and Officers.

Then it was time for the final act: Captain’s Farewell Dinner. Speeches and goodbyes, with intentions to meet again, somewhere, sometime and explore another part of our world.