Borabora

The day started with the sun rising behind the majestic central mountains of Borabora, and throughout the day the island lived up to Michener’s claim that it is the most beautiful island in the world. Borabora is a spectacular volcanic remnant reaching 2,400ft at unclimbed Mount Otemanu. This mountain and its smaller sister, Mount Pahia (2,200ft) dominates the island. The reef is a barrier reef with many sandy islets (called motu in Tahitian), supporting an increasing number of hotels with over-water bungalows.

Separating the barrier reef from the volcanic edifice is an encircling lagoon famous for its wide range of blues, from turquoise of shallow areas to ultramarine over the deepest water. The image is Judith Kunzle’s interpretation of Mount Pahia from the ship.

During the morning we boarded open-sided buses for the 18-mile round-island circumnavigation. After a brief stop at Faanui Church to photograph the mountains, we called in for an interesting demonstration of the making of tie-dyed pareo – the local wrap-around dress for women. There was also an opportunity to taste coconut ‘meat’, papaya, pamplemousse/pomelo and lady-finger bananas.

The guide explained the present life of her people and the history of the island. In several places she pointed out the traces of the American presence during the War: the circle-island road, the greatly enlarged pass into the island (Teavanui), a bunker used by people as a shelter during the last hurricane, and the seaplane ramp. Most people are Protestants and they bury their loved-ones in graves around their houses. She noted that the population was about 9,000, with dogs close behind at around 8,000 two years ago. They have been working on reducing the number of dogs but had made little progress so far.

After a couple more photo-stops, including one at the beautiful beach on the southern edge of the caldera-lagoon (Povai Bay), we called into Bloody Mary’s to sample the famous drink.

The afternoon was spent on the small, uninhabited islet Motu Tapu. This small motu is owned by Robert Wan, who made his fortune as the ‘King of Black Pearls’. The beach was great for beginning snorkelers and to laze in the shallow warm water. More experienced snorkelers swam out about a hundred meters to the remains of a reef with small but interesting fish. The glass-bottom boat was active and many of us enjoyed seeing the marine-life from above with John providing identifications and an interesting commentary.

We set sail for Tahiti during sunset, and most of us were on deck for a last viewing of the island. The evening rounded-off pleasantly with the Captain’s Cocktail Party and dinner.