Rangiroa

Today we landed at Rangiroa atoll, the second biggest atoll in the world with a lagoon area of 1640 square kilometers. We entered the pass of Tuputa and anchored in front of the village, which carries its same name upon a small pier, meanwhile the assistant mayor and a small group of musicians awaited us under the shade of an enormous Tamanu tree. This is the biggest of all the Tuamotu atolls, with the major land surface, and therefore it held in past times the largest population of this archipelago.

Archaeological evidence indicates that they could have been populated around 1200 BP, and its inhabitants most probably came from the neighboring high islands, such as the Society and Marquesas archipelagos. Apparently Rangiroa always maintained close trade contacts with Tahiti and during the 18th Century, certain ngati (extended Families) of Rangiroa where required to supply coconuts, fish, birds, pearl shell, dogs and pandanus mats to important Tahitian chiefs. They spoke Tuamotuan a Proto-Tahitic family descent language, and as resources were scarce their social organization was simple and the production of material goods was largely a domestic affair. Goods tended to be utilitarian by design with certain items, especially pandanus mats, playing a vital role in kinship based exchange. In the wider islands, extensive garden ditches were excavated and filled with compost which permitted them to cultivate most agricultural products that grow on high islands

Their greatest limitation was fresh water, although the larger atoll islets support a thin sub-surface aquifer (Ghyben-Herzberg Lens) floating on salt water. The great marine productivity together with the large number of species of marine birds that nested upon these islands made it possible to sustain human existence throughout the Tuamotu.

The different ngati or extended families led by an elder or chief occupied the many scattered reef islands that border the 75 by 25 wide lagoon. There were no strong ties between them as there was constant fighting over the limited land resources. In the late 19th century, invasions and warfare with other Tuamotu islands and especially by warriors from Anaa atoll made them abandon the Rangiroa and seek refuge in Tahiti. Only upon their conversion to Christianity and the end of warfare permitted them to resettle Rangiroa in 1825.

Upon arrival on the pier of Tiputa (population 480) the musicians started playing traditional Tuamotuan music. We walked around the village, shopped at a cooperative store close to the landing place for shell necklaces, and passed by and visited some of their many churches (Catholic, Protestant, Sanito, a branch of the Mormon Church, Mormons, Seventh-day Adventists, and Jehovah Witnesses) that dot their small universe. In the afternoon water sports were held in the lagoon and many could admire by diving, snorkeling or by our glass bottom boat, the many marvels of the deep. Upon leaving the lagoon we were surrounded by a pod of Bottlenose Dolphins that greeted us farewell as the played around the Endeavour.