Store Jonsfjorden, Poolepynten
In a land where the sun never sets, it is quite easy for the days of an expedition to blend into one long day of activities and exploration. For this reason, losing track of time is almost guaranteed and unfortunately it always seems to pass too quickly. We emerged from our cabins this morning with Lilliehookbreen glacier still embedded in our minds from the previous night, which also happened to be our northernmost point of the trip at 79° 21’ 00”N Latitude.
As the National Geographic Endeavour journeyed south to Store Jonsfjorden, it was impossible to not appreciate the surrounding landscape. Jagged mountain peaks poked through low-lying clouds, contrasting patches of a cobalt-blue sky, which only added to both the mystery and allure of such a remote region. Our anchorage brought us to yet another impressive glacier, where we were able to get a more intimate experience in both kayaks and Zodiacs. These opportunities are the ones that allow us to truly experience the wilderness of the Arctic through its sounds and sights. Flocks of kittiwakes pass overhead and can also be found waiting on glacier walls. As black guillemots nonchalantly swim across the bow of our inflatable crafts, we are distracted by the thunderous cracks of falling ice off the glacier face. And while listening to the melt-water runoff, common eiders effortlessly glide above the surface of the water. A bearded seal pops his head out from the milky glacial silt, and disappears just as quickly. Surrounded by so much diversity, it’s difficult to pull away. But there is yet more to see and experience.
After lunch, we move west to Poolepynten in search of walruses. We stroll quietly along the beach, careful not to disturb the nesting arctic terns. As we approach the point, the undeniable smell tells us that we have found our “pot of gold”. Lazily lying above the water’s edge are close to 140 walruses. Packed together in a tight group, they appear as one large mass of blubber and tusks. We watch in awe, trying to soak it all in. It is difficult to move on, but exploration has not ended for the day.
Back aboard the ship and continuing south, we congregated in the lounge to enjoy fantastic presentations by Kelvin Murray, Undersea Specialist, and Flip Nicklin, National Geographic Photographer. The entertainment continued through cocktail hour. Songs were sung, poems recited, and jokes were told. The expedition seemingly couldn’t get any better. Then, during dessert, they came. First, one blow, then another. The announcement over the loudspeaker came as we scrambled to the decks outside. From this perspective, it wasn’t long before we realized that whales surrounded us. A flock of kittiwakes were following a humpback whale. Fin whales surfaced off the starboard bow. And then the tall blow of a mother blue whale was spotted off the port bow, calf at her side. How can it get any better than this?
In remembering everything that was experienced this week, it is difficult to imagine how a place so close to the end of the earth can be so abundant in wildlife. We came to explore the land of the ice bears and discovered that there is so much more. It would seem fitting that the end of a perfect day to the end of a perfect expedition would finish with the setting sun. But in the land of the midnight sun, our only alternative is to watch the whales swim off into the distant horizon.
In a land where the sun never sets, it is quite easy for the days of an expedition to blend into one long day of activities and exploration. For this reason, losing track of time is almost guaranteed and unfortunately it always seems to pass too quickly. We emerged from our cabins this morning with Lilliehookbreen glacier still embedded in our minds from the previous night, which also happened to be our northernmost point of the trip at 79° 21’ 00”N Latitude.
As the National Geographic Endeavour journeyed south to Store Jonsfjorden, it was impossible to not appreciate the surrounding landscape. Jagged mountain peaks poked through low-lying clouds, contrasting patches of a cobalt-blue sky, which only added to both the mystery and allure of such a remote region. Our anchorage brought us to yet another impressive glacier, where we were able to get a more intimate experience in both kayaks and Zodiacs. These opportunities are the ones that allow us to truly experience the wilderness of the Arctic through its sounds and sights. Flocks of kittiwakes pass overhead and can also be found waiting on glacier walls. As black guillemots nonchalantly swim across the bow of our inflatable crafts, we are distracted by the thunderous cracks of falling ice off the glacier face. And while listening to the melt-water runoff, common eiders effortlessly glide above the surface of the water. A bearded seal pops his head out from the milky glacial silt, and disappears just as quickly. Surrounded by so much diversity, it’s difficult to pull away. But there is yet more to see and experience.
After lunch, we move west to Poolepynten in search of walruses. We stroll quietly along the beach, careful not to disturb the nesting arctic terns. As we approach the point, the undeniable smell tells us that we have found our “pot of gold”. Lazily lying above the water’s edge are close to 140 walruses. Packed together in a tight group, they appear as one large mass of blubber and tusks. We watch in awe, trying to soak it all in. It is difficult to move on, but exploration has not ended for the day.
Back aboard the ship and continuing south, we congregated in the lounge to enjoy fantastic presentations by Kelvin Murray, Undersea Specialist, and Flip Nicklin, National Geographic Photographer. The entertainment continued through cocktail hour. Songs were sung, poems recited, and jokes were told. The expedition seemingly couldn’t get any better. Then, during dessert, they came. First, one blow, then another. The announcement over the loudspeaker came as we scrambled to the decks outside. From this perspective, it wasn’t long before we realized that whales surrounded us. A flock of kittiwakes were following a humpback whale. Fin whales surfaced off the starboard bow. And then the tall blow of a mother blue whale was spotted off the port bow, calf at her side. How can it get any better than this?
In remembering everything that was experienced this week, it is difficult to imagine how a place so close to the end of the earth can be so abundant in wildlife. We came to explore the land of the ice bears and discovered that there is so much more. It would seem fitting that the end of a perfect day to the end of a perfect expedition would finish with the setting sun. But in the land of the midnight sun, our only alternative is to watch the whales swim off into the distant horizon.
