In the Ice & Isbukta

The morning began with an uncommon sighting of two solitary sperm whales. Overnight we sailed a bit offshore from the main island of Spitsbergen and ended up in deep canyon waters. Sperm whales are the largest of the toothed whales and it was exciting to have a glimpse of these incredibly deep diving whales in such misty conditions. We also saw small groups of white-beaked dolphins racing around in search of food. Summer is the height of productivity and all of the wildlife take full advantage of it. The dolphins swam just before the bow and it was a fantastic view of these beautiful animals.

Throughout the morning we sailed around the southern tip of the archipelago in search of pack ice on the continuous quest for ice bears. We experienced dramatic katabatic winds racing off the glaciers as the National Geographic Endeavour nimbly waved its way through the ice. Small groups of harp seals were seen porpoising through the open leads and the ever present Northern fulmar swirled around the ship.

In the mid-afternoon, in ideal conditions of brilliant, blue skies and warm sunshine, we enjoyed a Zodiac cruise in Isbukta. We were awed by the jaw-dropping scenery and clear views of the mountains tops of up to 3,000 feet. The Zodiacs slowly cruised along the glacier's edge, all the keen photographers tried to capture the sheer volume of this wall of ice and all its bits surrounding us. The waters closest to the glacier were very murky brown in color. This is called glacier flour and we discovered that it is because of all the sediment released when the glacier ice melts. It was great to see, touch and even taste small bits of ice that floated along. We had a very relaxing afternoon in such a beautiful setting.

In the evening just before recap, we had our first close encounter with a bearded seal. The seal was resting on a flat piece of sea ice and it was incredible to see how such a rotund animal could have such a small head.

We sailed through the night in and around the pack ice – who knows what adventures tomorrow might bring?