Poolepynten, Store Jonsfjorden

Motoring through another sun-lit night, the National Geographic Endeavour continued north in our exploration of the west coast of Spitzbergen. Squinting from the early morning light, we rubbed the sleep from our eyes and ingested warm cups of java in an effort assist our awakening. As the anchor was gingerly lowered we prepared ourselves for a landing at Poolepynten. Braving the wind and waves, we ventured out into the Arctic elements in our inflatable landing crafts, curious to see what we would find. As we approached the beach, awareness was immediately brought to our olfactory senses and we knew our search was a success. Once ashore, it was a brief walk along the beach, being careful not to disturb the nesting Arctic Terns. Upon reaching a hut on the point of the beach, the aroma strengthens and we can finally see why. Lying on the beach in a mass of blubber and tusks are a large number of walruses. They are here to molt, which is a process of shedding their old skin to prepare for the new season. We observe them quietly in amazement, curious to know what the rest of their lives might entail.

After returning to the ship we positioned eastward to Store Jonsfjorden and readied the Zodiacs for yet another cruise. We motored slowly along the shoreline, quietly studying the dynamic geologic landscapes within the fjord. Black guillemots swimming nearby seemed to escort us around the bay. Approaching the immense glacier face, we could see large flocks of kittiwakes floating at the base. The thunderous crack could be heard immediately preceding chunks of ice cascading down the face. Almost simultaneously, the kittiwakes scatter and take flight and try to snatch up polar cod from the newly disturbed water. We continued along the glacier face and spotted a few eiders flying overhead, eventually making our way back to the ship.

Once back on board, we warmed up during tea time and increased our knowledge with an excellent presentation from Stephanie Martin, our cetacean expert. Cocktail hour included an entertaining pair of songs from naturalist Ian Bullock as well as some fascinating footage from below the surface of the Arctic Ocean, compliments of Kelvin Murray, Undersea Specialist. After dinner most of us retired to our cabins as the ocean rocked us to sleep.