Tresco
It was an early start today as we set out by Zodiac to land on Tresco, one of the five inhabited islands of the Isles of Scilly. This archipelago is a drowned landscape, a larger island off the coast of Cornwall having been inundated in historic times. The sea between the islands is shallow and rocky, notorious for wrecks. The climate of the Isles of Scilly, on the other hand, is celebrated for its mildness, receiving the moderating effect of the Gulf Stream. Even at the winter equinox, some 300 plants will be in flower here. When Augustus Smith began his garden on Tresco in 1834 he found that by protecting it from the wind he could raise Mediterranean plants. His successor, Arthur Dorrien-Smith introduced specimens from South Africa, Australia and New Zealand. Gradually, a sub-tropical garden took shape that now hosts species from some eighty countries and attracts visitors from as many countries. Approaching the garden from Carn Near, passing across the well-manicured heliport, Augustus Smith’s residence dominates the scene. He called his home Tresco Abbey after the ruins of an old Benedictine structure, itself built on the site of an earlier Celtic monastic settlement, the ruins of which make an attractive corner to the extraordinary garden. Another corner houses Valhalla, a collection of ship’s figureheads from island wrecks, beautifully restored and displayed. Tresco Garden, as any successful garden should, induces feelings of peace of tranquillity. A statue of Gaia, the earth goddess, one of several sculptures incorporated into the garden, is particularly apt.
In the afternoon, we landed at Hugh Town on the principal island of St Mary’s. The island’s largest town, it became a port suddenly following the inundation. It still seems unsure of its metropolitan status. A choice of activities was offered: a geology walk to investigate the dramatic granite boulders of Peninnis Head, an ornithological walk in search of the spotted crake, and an archaeological tour by bicycle to a neolithic village and burial cairn. For few hardy souls – for rain set in late in the afternoon – the cycle ride was extended to view the memorial to Sir Cloudesley Shovel, the English admiral who steered his fleet onto the rocks close by in 1707. His inglorious end caused the English government to announce a competition for the invention of a scientific method of determining longitude, a competition eventually won by John Harrison with his magnificent chronometer, earning him the lasting gratitude of all who go to the sea in ships.
It was an early start today as we set out by Zodiac to land on Tresco, one of the five inhabited islands of the Isles of Scilly. This archipelago is a drowned landscape, a larger island off the coast of Cornwall having been inundated in historic times. The sea between the islands is shallow and rocky, notorious for wrecks. The climate of the Isles of Scilly, on the other hand, is celebrated for its mildness, receiving the moderating effect of the Gulf Stream. Even at the winter equinox, some 300 plants will be in flower here. When Augustus Smith began his garden on Tresco in 1834 he found that by protecting it from the wind he could raise Mediterranean plants. His successor, Arthur Dorrien-Smith introduced specimens from South Africa, Australia and New Zealand. Gradually, a sub-tropical garden took shape that now hosts species from some eighty countries and attracts visitors from as many countries. Approaching the garden from Carn Near, passing across the well-manicured heliport, Augustus Smith’s residence dominates the scene. He called his home Tresco Abbey after the ruins of an old Benedictine structure, itself built on the site of an earlier Celtic monastic settlement, the ruins of which make an attractive corner to the extraordinary garden. Another corner houses Valhalla, a collection of ship’s figureheads from island wrecks, beautifully restored and displayed. Tresco Garden, as any successful garden should, induces feelings of peace of tranquillity. A statue of Gaia, the earth goddess, one of several sculptures incorporated into the garden, is particularly apt.
In the afternoon, we landed at Hugh Town on the principal island of St Mary’s. The island’s largest town, it became a port suddenly following the inundation. It still seems unsure of its metropolitan status. A choice of activities was offered: a geology walk to investigate the dramatic granite boulders of Peninnis Head, an ornithological walk in search of the spotted crake, and an archaeological tour by bicycle to a neolithic village and burial cairn. For few hardy souls – for rain set in late in the afternoon – the cycle ride was extended to view the memorial to Sir Cloudesley Shovel, the English admiral who steered his fleet onto the rocks close by in 1707. His inglorious end caused the English government to announce a competition for the invention of a scientific method of determining longitude, a competition eventually won by John Harrison with his magnificent chronometer, earning him the lasting gratitude of all who go to the sea in ships.
