Santa Cruz Island
The National Geographic Endeavour is not the only ship at the anchorage site this morning. Academy Bay is crowded with other tourism ships and a lot of traffic is going on. Aqua taxis sneak in between the ships, fishermen in fiber boats steer their way off the bay, Zodiacs load people onto the pier, and speedboats head to a scuba dive site. The town of Puerto Ayora concentrates most of the economic activities of the Galápagos. Most of the population of 20,000 lives there. All along the shore we can see many buildings surging above the trees and roofs. The movement of white pickup truck taxis is visible from here. This is a busy little town.
Our visit is right next to town, where the facilities of the National Park and the Charles Darwin Foundation are located. We are visiting the Giant Tortoises Breeding Center this morning. Our Zodiacs drop us off at the National Park dock so we can walk up to the tortoises. It is early still but the heat already consumes our energies. I take care to look for nice shade for my group before making a stop to talk. The tortoise hatchlings are kept in corrals covered with fences at night to prevent predation by rats. The new generations that will repopulate the archipelago are well-taken care of at the breeding center. They represent the result of hard work to restore not only their populations but the Galápagos as a whole. The efforts of conservation are made visible through this program and this is a successful story with a powerful message, a message of harmony between people and the environment.
The heat really hinders our steps now and we are all relieved to take a bus ride to the highland of Santa Cruz, where a refreshing breeze will accompany us for a nice lunch into the lush vegetation of the rural zone. Our host, a charismatic Chilean cook, always receives us with pleasure and a great table!
We will remain in the highland for our afternoon visit as we pay a call on the giant tortoises, but in the wild this time, freely roaming in their natural habitat. We stop on a private land that the owner has kept pristine. It was an honor to have him lead our group to the site where most tortoises can be seen: A fresh water pound covered by moss hanging from branches. There is what seems to be at first sight two rocks polished by the age of time, but they are actually two giant tortoises, refreshing themselves in the muddy pond. Since we are on private land, our guests are able to walk on their own and go in search of some more giants. It is a moment for everyone to discover and enjoy a more personal experience. These deeply lived and felt moments are the ones that become rooted in one’s mind and heart.
We had a beautiful day in Santa Cruz but, after the whole day out under the sun, we will be glad to find our way back to the Endeavour, anchored outside the busy bay of Puerto Ayora.
