Húsavík & Akureyri, Iceland

Bright sunlight accompanied the National Geographic Explorer early this morning as we docked in the small fishing town of Húsavík on the northern coast of Iceland. After breakfast we were treated to one of the most interesting whaling museums in all of Europe. Remember that Iceland is still an active whaling nation. The museum here in Húsavík not only recounted the history of the lives and times of the whalers from past to present, but also dedicated itself to the natural history of the whales themselves.

Quite a controversy has been brewing here amongst the locals for the last decade or so as more and more visitors to this area choose to see living whales rather than support the taking of whales. Many locals have grown up with, and still hold on to, the local traditions of harvesting whales for their meat and blubber. In 2009 over 500,000 people visited Iceland and according to the folks who run the whaling museum here, some 50,000 people went out on whale watching boats to see living whales from the Húsavík area alone. Think about that; almost one in ten people who visited Iceland last year paid to go and experience living whales. Perhaps the message for the people of Iceland is this; whales are worth more to Iceland’s economy alive than dead.

Our day continued on with a visit to Lake Myvatn, the most geologically active area in Iceland. A walk along the southern edge of the lake yielded views of many breeding birds in all of their finest breeding plumage. Lake Myvatn is home to more breeding ducks (15 of the 16 species commonly found here in Iceland) than anywhere else in Europe.

Further investigation of the area brought us to the bizarre boiling mud pools at Hverarönd, where this high temperature geothermal area produces fumaroles and boiling mud pots. Steam was hissing from lava rock domes and the noxious smell of sulfur filled the air. At the boiling mud pots the Earth continually “burped” gas bubbles up through the mud, splattering it all around.

The day was capped off with a visit to Godafoss, the “waterfall of the gods.” The rain we had been experiencing all day ensured that the falls were truly roaring as water plummeted off the lava bench above into the fissure of the river below. A wonderful opportunity for photographers of all skill levels! We continued on to find the National Geographic Explorer had followed us by sea from Húsavík to Akureyri, where we joined the ship and spent a quiet night alongside the dock.