At Sea

The sea was in boisterous mood as we awoke for the second full day at sea in our transit to Tristan da Cunha from South Georgia. Waves crashed against the bow causing the ship to pitch as we progressed north-eastward. Although we had crossed the Antarctic Convergence, the wind made it feel cool on deck and only the most dedicated birders or photographers ventured out. Safe inside, a full program was provided to keep us all occupied. A morning presentation on Charles Darwin’s transformative voyage aboard HMSS Beagle provided a timely reminder that the great naturalist was much prone to seasickness. On one occasion he wrote home to his family: “I detest every wave of the ocean!”

This was followed by a navigation class, introducing us to charts and the art of dead reckoning, the first in series of classes that will cover the basic elements of navigation at sea. Following a leisurely lunch, we had an impassioned talk on the scientific basis for the current concerns on climate change, illustrated with the latest dramatic data from the polar continents. This presentation was supplemented by the screening after dinner of an episode from the latest BBC Natural History Unit documentary series, Frozen Planet.

There was much excitement when our expedition leader announced the options available for our day ashore at Tristan, although he stressed that a landing there is weather dependent and allowed only when judged safe by the island’s harbor master. Sign-up sheets for a visit to the potato patches quickly filled along with options for shore-fishing and golf, the latter on a course shared by the island’s livestock but offering the chance to acquire a coveted Tristan da Cunha Golf Club tie.