Monrovia, Liberia
The headlines in Monrovia, Liberia today read “No Miss Liberia Yet.” This was in reference to a scandalous nomination in this year’s Miss Liberia beauty pageant. The verdict is still out as to who this year’s winner is as, apparently, the nominee given the crown during last night’s event, Leela Knowlden, was chosen based on cyber votes rather than the judge’s own votes. This means her title has been temporarily stripped as Liberia awaits the official verdict. As salacious and tabloid-esque as this seems it is no doubt a welcomed headline for the inhabitants of war torn Monrovia.
After decades of civil war the country is on the rebound and we had the honor of touring its capital this morning. Our presence brought much attention in Monrovia as it was seen as a clear sign that progress is being made and that tourists are willing to visit the country again. We, the 160 staff and guests traveling aboard the National Geographic Explorer, apparently represented the largest group of tourists to visit the city of Monrovia at any one time. As stated in the Executive Mansion press release the day before our arrival, “The passengers and guests [aboard Explorer] are accomplished travelers keen to learn more on all aspects of African culture and history.” True. True, indeed.
After a visit by the country’s vice president (Mr. Joseph Boakai) last night aboard the Explorer we were well informed about Liberia’s tumultuous past but were eager to see the country in her early stages of recovery. Our time in Monrovia included an outing to Abuko Nature Reserve, a trip to an extensive mangrove system just outside the city, and a drive through the city center with stops at the National Museum, Obbas’ School for Girls and the remains of the once elegant Ducor Hotel which sits on a hilltop overlooking the city.
In addition we were followed throughout the day by reporters from Public Radio International, the BBC and Voice of America, all eager to get feedback on the reasons for, and opinions on our visit. Despite the clear United Nations peacekeeping presence and infrastructure the city seemed as chaotic and lively as any other West African city we have visited so far. Even the occasional bullet-pocked facades seemed like any other worn African building and would no doubt add character to an unassuming passerby.
However, the part of our visit that left little doubt as to where we were and what recently happened came from talking to the locals. With the 2004 end of fighting being so recent EVERYBODY seemed to have a story about the conflict and most lived through the entire ordeal. All of a sudden, we were walking amongst the people who saw, with their own eyes, the horror the rest of us witnessed from our television screens. We had a chance to stand with them, on the very streets their friends and family struggled to survive on. We crossed the bridges that had been destroyed to limit access and escape of potential rebels (recently rebuilt by the Chinese). And, we had a chance to ask the questions they needed so badly to hear: “what are your dreams now that the war is over?”
