At Sea Off the Coast of West Africa

Sea days always bring interesting sightings, and today was no different in that regard on the National Geographic Explorer. In addition to a variety of seabirds, we also saw several groups of dolphins. One gang of Atlantic spotted dolphins came to ride on the ship’s bow wave for a mile or so. There was an all too brief view of a couple of strange, and unidentified, beaked whales lunging away on the port side of the ship. Our marine delight of the day was encountering a number of sei whales. These medium-sized baleen whales were quite numerous in one area we passed, but we could not determine if they were there for dining or for a social agenda. With some slow and gentle driving by the ship’s bridge, we had many fantastic views of individual whales swimming just beneath the surface and then rising to breathe right next to the ship. This species can often be difficult to identify when sighted at sea, and it’s not often that whale watchers are treated to such extraordinary views of this unusual species.

Today also marks the completion of the fourth week of our West African Odyssey. It seems like a timely point to reflect on what this experience has brought our way. Just as we have moved from the hot and dry climate of Namibia to the sweaty heat and humidity of the Gulf of Guinea, and back now to milder days in The Gambia and Senegal, our experiences have varied just as widely.

We have observed a great variety of cultures, dominated by some of the lowest incomes on the planet, yet we have also consistently seen the broadest of smiles throughout the voyage. Our lives contrast dramatically with their lives, and it brings us great appreciation for our privilege to be here on this expedition. We’ve encountered children who experience life with incredible zest, enjoying the simplest things. We’ve seen the multi-layered world of West Africa, from bare subsistence to the richly joyful celebration of a local village in Togo, as well as monuments to the extreme excesses of power. All along we’ve heard different music as a fantastic soundtrack to our experiences. And, we’ve been inspired by the many people, both individuals and in organizations, we have met along the way who are doing great things to help improve life today and for the future of West Africa’s children.

From the beginning, Doc Mendonsa told us that connecting with the people in Africa depended on our taking a different approach to our communication, and we have carried that idea with us on this journey. Extending a hand to say hello, sharing a smile, swaying with the music, have been our way of entering their world on mutual terms.

Shawn Davis summed it up beautifully today when he said, “It’s liberating to come to the conclusion that there is no one answer to the complexities of Africa, and to instead enjoy the process of peeling back the layers, and exploring and appreciating them for what they are.”