Neko Harbour & Booth Island

The gray skies of morning light reflected on a still sea indicated that still air was close by. Amending our plans and pulling into Neko Harbour meant that this morning would offer a new opportunity to explore this splendid landscape. Under the watchful eyes of porpoising gentoo penguins, we safely paddled our kayaks amongst floating bits of glacial ice. We saw that the warnings were not without reason when a nearby glacier sent new icebergs to the sea amidst wave and spray. Fresh, unique ice sculptures for us to explore from a safe distance. Luckily the leg cramps inherent to any kayak excursion were quickly worked out with a hike on the continent of Antarctica. For many this was number 7 in a life-long journey to set foot on all Earth’s continents. For others Antarctica has now been checked off the list and it’s all downhill from here.

Transiting south we passed through the iconic Lemaire Channel and the so-called Kodak Gap. Oddly enough not a single exposure of film was heard advancing over the rapid machine gun firing of modern digital cameras, replete with high definition video capture of passing bergs and the towering Unas Peaks. Perhaps a new moniker is needed for this classic scenic passage. Pixel Pass? Gigabyte Gap?

Booth Island compromises the western side of Lemaire Channel, and it was here that we continued to the west and began our final operation of the day. At Booth Island all three species of brushtail penguins (Adelie, gentoo, and chinstrap) can be seen nesting within proximity of each other. As some enjoyed the overlook while others took to the Zodiacs and explored the iceberg graveyard around Booth Island. Crabeater seals and gentoo penguins were found transiting the narrow passages between skyscraping bergs like businessmen along busy city streets. Standing out against a perfectly gray sky, ice forms took on mysterious shapes and all imaginable shades of blue.

Leaving Booth Island we left the realm most Antarctic visitors get to see and continued our voyage south. How far? Only the wind and ice know.