Detaille Island and Camp W
Morning light raked across the unnamed snow-covered peaks that paralleled our passage as we continued our explorations below the Antarctic Circle. The early risers among us were treated to a breathtaking spectacle of jagged mountains and calm seas bathed in the soft, ethereal light of a perfect dawn. Today, we were sailing to Detaille Island, home to a long-abandoned British weather station known as Camp W.
Built in 1956, Camp W originally expected a long life of science and research. Unfortunately, logistical challenges and dangerous weather caused Detaille Island and its remote weather station to be abandoned after only two years.
During the long Antarctic winter, unstable sea-ice extended more than thirty miles from the isolated little outpost, making re-supply near impossible. In 1959, when the dangers to the staff and crew became too great, an emergency evacuation was made upon very short notice. Having experienced multiple rescue attempts by American ice-breakers that failed to reach the station, the men there, with only the clothes on their back and the little they could carry by dogsled, made a mad dash across the vast ice-field to safety. Fortunately all survived.
The station today is a time-capsule of Antarctic science in the 1950’s. Untouched since that time, the everyday equipment, foodstuffs, charts, clothes and personal possessions of the staff and crew remain where they were hurriedly left over 50 years ago. We walked among the effects in an almost hushed silence, often the loudest noises being the shutters on our cameras as we recorded the tale of Antarctic lives of so long ago.
Later in the afternoon as we continued our voyage north through Crystal Sound, David Doubilet, our National Geographic photographer, gave his second presentation, this time on his most recent story for the magazine, one in fact coming out in this month’s issue. The topic was artificial reefs, and as we’ve come to expect from David, the narrative was entertaining and the photographs were absolutely spectacular.
Not to waste a gorgeous warm and sunny day in Antarctica, our chef, galley and hotel manager arranged for a special afternoon tea on the aft deck, featuring a barbeque and lomitos, a grilled Argentinean steak sandwich. Hardly believing our luck with the weather, or spectacular Antarctic surroundings, we sat on the sunny deck enjoying our repast and taking in the unbelievable scenery as we sailed past on the National Geographic Explorer.
