Snow Island, South Shetland Islands

We returned this late morning to the South Shetland Islands, enjoying one last day ashore in Antarctica. Snow Island was our destination and after a fantastic talk by National Geographic Photographer Kevin Schafer, we went ashore at President’s Head. This rocky outcropping was rugged and steep on all sides, but afforded a beautiful cobblestone beach that begged exploration.

Once ashore, we noticed giant petrels and all three species of brushtail penguins around the beach area. The island also boasted beautiful lichens and grasses, most of which we had not yet experienced anywhere else in Antarctica. The most incredible elements of the landing, however, were the Southern elephant seals in steaming piles along the rocky beachfront.

We watched many of the sub-adults from a distance, and experienced their loud bellowing as we moved along the beach. Many natural treasures were unearthed, including the skull and jawbones of a large cetacean far above the beach. It was impossible to visually take in all of the bones, limpet shells, and beautifully colored stones scattered around. Beachcombing was exciting and unearthed many interesting finds.

The slightly older elephant seals seemed unimpressed with our arrival and continued to lounge on the snow and rock. The recently weaned pups however were curious and friendly, approaching our groups for a closer inspection. These “small” pups, each weighing nearly 400 lbs., climbed all over us, snorted into our camera gear, and even brought whiskery faces in close to our own for a more complete examination. Their huge eyes seemed to take in absolutely everything around them and made it impossible to look away without smiles on our faces.

The magical day continued, with views of bathing seals and a few playful penguins. We loathed leaving the beach and the weaner pups seemed loathe to allow us to go.

Once back aboard our ship, David Doubilet shared some of his incredible underwater photographs, inspiring us to be more curious about the masses of life beneath our waters.

We began our northward crossing of the Drake Passage, minds and camera cards filled to the brim with incredible images of an incredible continent.