Lemaire Channel, Dorian Bay, Antarctica

“There is water on the planet without life.
But there is no life on the planet without water.”

Morning broke to find water surrounding us. Clouds of vaporized water overhead shrouded the peaks on Booth Island to the west of the Antarctic Peninsula as we transited the Lemaire Channel.

Captain Leif Skog expertly navigated National Geographic Explorer through the heavy pack ice. Upon reaching the southern limit of Lemaire we encountered nine-tenths pack. Sea ice is measured in tenths, with ice-free water being zero tenths, solid pack ice being ten-tenths. Luckily we encountered first-year, soft sea ice. The 1A ice rated bow of the ship easily sliced through.

Seals, penguins and the occasional minke whale accompanied us as we sailed this scenic passage. Water in all forms held our attention.

Dorian Bay on Damoy Point, home to both British and Argentine refuge huts gave us time to explore both by kayak and a foot. Gentoo penguins climbed to rocky outcrops to exchange parental duties, while others concentrated on stealing rocks to build their own nests.

Icebergs in the bay enthralled kayakers out to enjoy the calm conditions and breathtaking scenery. A climb to the top of the ridge provided panoramic views of the bay.

Water connects us. Whether in the form of liquid to paddle in, snow to slide upon, or ice to navigate through, we share a common fascination and built-in need for water.