Neko Harbour and Port Lockroy
With the bow of National Geographic Explorer rested ashore at Neko Harbour this morning’s adventure would involve an invigorating hike along a still snow-covered ridgeline high above an active and boisterous Gentoo Penguin (Pygoscelis papua) colony. The landscape on this side of the peninsula, stark though it may be, drives one to wonder at its grandeur and sheer beauty. Glacial ice cascading off the jagged peaks forms an impenetrable wall that rings the frigid blue-green waters of this harbor. All but for a few scarce bare patches of rock are shrouded in this icy blanket. On which the hardy few species of seabirds make their summer homes. Penguins, gulls, skuas, sheathbills, and shags colonize these near barren outcroppings in order to further their species survival. It was our extreme privilege to amble through this rich drama of life on our way to the snowy summit of the ridge overlook. The experience here at Neko Harbour was not merely a terrestrial one; a close look at the marine environment was had by many of our guests. Using our versatile Zodiac boats to ply the iceberg strewn waters of the harbor proved to be a most enriching experience, culminating in a rare and enriching encounter with two of the behemoth occupants of these rich, productive Antarctic waters. At least two Humpback Whales (Megaptera novaeangliae) and one Minke Whale (Baleanoptera bonaerensis) were observed. These massive denizens of the ocean carried on about their task of feeding on the life sustaining krill as if we were not even present. Meanwhile our terrestrial explorers were getting close up glimpse of the Gentto colony, and grand vistas of this glacial landscape. Some even chose a quicker decent from the lofty summit by glissading down the snowy face thanks to their waterproof outerwear.
The afternoon would bring us to the historic location of Port Lockroy, situated on Goudier Island, as well as a brief visit to another colony of Gentoo Penguins and Blue-eyed Shags (Phalacrocorax bransfieldensis) at Jougla Point. Port Lockcroy was established by the British in 1944 initially posing as a scientific outpost during World War Two, code named Tabarin, it was to monitor possible Axis naval activity in the Southern Ocean. Later this remote base was the center for scientific research in the area and now is preserved and maintained by the United Kingdom Antarctic Heritage Trust, an organization dedicated to maintaining the rich history of British exploration of the Antarctic. At the now restored base visitors can step back into time and imagine what life in such a remote and desolate locale may have been like. We were fortunate to have had the current occupants of this site join us on board for the evening to share what present day life at Port Lockroy is like. Not to mention they get a chance to see some fresh faces and enjoy a pleasant meal on board.
The surprises never end at dinner on board National Geographic Explorer. Tonight was kid’s night, and as the “adults” dined in the forward section of our fine vessel while the kids and a few staff, present author included, enjoyed Bar-b-que chicken, endless soda, and ice cream while watching an age appropriate film on the six big screens in the lounge. Following the feature film our captain and crew navigated through the Lemaire Channel. A true Antarctic experience indeed as remnant ice from last winter nearly chokes this passage the sturdy nature of our vessel plowed through the ice as if it were merely slush on a winter road. All the while a heavy summer snow fell on the decks of National Geographic Explorer.
