Lemaire Channel/Port Lockroy-Jougla Point/Paradise Bay
What a lovely day! Our morning started very early when at 6:30a.m. the National Geographic Explorer travelled north along the famous Lemaire Channel. The weather was perfect, blue skies, no wind…and the clear waters were reflecting the majestic peaks around us. Initially, the sun was hiding behind the mountains but you could see the glow of the sunlight rising in the east. The crossing of the Lemaire Channel was spectacular and by all means a highlight in our trip.
At 8:30a.m. we arrived at Port Lockroy in a beautiful and quiet morning. Port Lockroy was discovered and named in 1904 by Jean Charcot from his ship Francais during the French Antarctic Expedition of 1903-05. Lockroy was named after a prominent French politician, Edouard Lockroy who helped obtain funding for the expedition. During the Second World War the UK, as part of its “Operation Tabarin,” established several bases to service scientific and political objectives. Port Lockroy (Base A) was one of the first bases, together with Deception Island (Base B) and was typically occupied by 4 to 9 men until 1962. Besides of visiting Bransfield House, part of the old base (now reconstructed and built into a site museum managed by the United Kingdom Antarctic Heritage Trust) we had the opportunity of walking along Gentoo penguins and sheathbills that spread around the buildings. After our visit to the base (and after doing our “Antarctic shopping”) we went for a short Zodiac shuttle and landed in Jougla Point located near the base. Jougla Point is well known by the amount of whale bones (a reminder of the whaling times) and its Gentoo penguin and blue eye jag rookeries….we can add to this that this place represents the “ultimate” guano experience, especially at this time of the breeding season. We had the opportunity to walk close to the penguin chicks that are currently changing their feathers to the adult plumage, and we also enjoyed watching the blue eye jags (chicks and adults). The weather continued to be spectacular so that we could enjoy the majestic views of the Seven Sisters (the mountain range that surrounds Port Lockroy and Jougla Point).
In the afternoon we initiated our way north, traveling first along the Neumeyer Channel towards Paradise Bay. In our way we encountered a group of humpback and killer whales. We gently followed the killer whales for a while until our whale experts on board left on a Zodiac to try to deploy some tags on these incredible creatures.
We continued our journey and spent the rest of the afternoon in Paradise Bay enjoying the sun and the majestic mountains that encircled the bay. It was time for Zodiac cruising and kayaking…and we could not have asked for a much better weather. Traveling between icebergs in the calm and clear waters of Paradise Bay was the perfect way to say goodbye to Antarctica. But before leaving the bay, we had some courageous travel mates that decided to go for the polar plunge.
We are now leaving the calm waters of the Antarctic Peninsula and it is time to reflect. Deep in our hearts we will remember the long sunsets, the endless skies, the vastness of the sea ice, the majesty of mountain peaks and hanging glaciers, the brightness of the ice, the sinuosity of channels and inlets, the tranquility of bays and coves, the delicate beauty of floating icebergs, and the rich diversity of marine fauna in Antarctica.
Antarctica is like an eternal spirit and we are certain that we will not be the same after having being on the White Continent. Antarctica makes us think about how we relate to nature in general and the responsibility that we have to protect the ecosystems that keep us alive. This is the perfect place to commit ourselves to do our outmost to preserve our planet. It is time to leave now, but Antarctica will remain in our minds and hearts for years to come…the Drake is now waiting for us…
