Fortuna Bay, Stromness, Grytviken
The ubiquitous fur seal pups welcomed us ashore for the commencement of the Shackleton Walk. Everything glistened ashore, the air still held the aroma of fresh rainfall, the hillsides dusted with fresh snow, and the sun appeared over the jagged peaks to the east. After getting ready we were given a briefing which outlaid how the walk would develop and how best to approach it.
Soon we were walking up a tussock-covered slope and then on to a gentler incline, which headed through huge moss banks and grassy areas. Along the way we passed many fur seals and in the grassy areas get close views of a giant petrel chick and parent. The grasses and mosses seemed to be coated in silver droplets as the morning dew caught the sun’s rays. Leaving the vegetation behind we enter an area of broken rocks, which are phyllite, they crunch and tinkle underfoot. It is a stark landscape and invites one to think more deeply about Shackleton, Worsley, and Crean as they made their way over this terrain and knew that they were tantalizingly close to getting to the help that the rest of the Imperial Trans-Antarctic Expedition needed to be able to complete the rescue.
From the highest vantage point we are able to look out over the large glacial plain, a river meandering its way down to the water’s edge and into Stromness Bay. The old whaling station, today a rusted mass of old buildings, can also be seen off to the right.
Once down on the plain we head up the short distance to the waterfall, where we meet up with our shipmates who have made the walk up from Stromness. We sit down and listen to the crystalline water come tumbling down and gurgle passed us. We have all shared a very moving experience by just being here, what a privilege!
During lunch the ship heads for Maiviken Bay and this is another opportunity for a leg stretch and walk over to Grytviken, our afternoon destination. A few hardy souls head off just after lunch whilst the rest of us allow the ship to take us to our afternoon adventures.
Soon enough we have landed close to the little cemetery at Grytviken, and with a glass of whisky head up to Sir Ernest Shackleton’s last resting place. It is a particularly moving experience as at his side, as of this summer, lies Frank Wild his trusted friend and the man who led the Elephant Island group during the long winter months of 1916. We toast to the Boss and then head off to wander about the old whaling station and try and imagine what it must have been like to work here. Our walk ends at the excellent museum; an opportunity to learn more about the rich history of the island. There is also a chance to catch up with some shopping in the little museum store as well as pay a visit to the beautiful little church behind the whaling station.
Once on board we gather in the lounge, with drinks in our hands, to listen to the staff from King Edward Point. We learn more about their work and the excellent science carried out here as well as the progress made by the team working on the eradication of the rats and reindeer on the island.
We will never forget this leap year day!
