English Strait, Half Moon Island, South Shetland Islands
If yesterday was a day of transitions then today has been one where superlatives were found wanting.
From the early hours the South Shetlands could be seen a ways off in the distance as we continued to enjoy the wonderful sea conditions from yesterday. Slowly the mountains and snow fields became more and more apparent and all along the way scores of blows were spotted. These are from humpback, fin and minke whales feeding in these rich seas.
During breakfast killer whales were spotted and the captain diverted the ship in search of these incredible cetaceans. Unfortunately we never got to see them again, but instead approached a group of fin whales, the second largest whale on the planet, and for the next hour spent the most incredible time with these magnificent mammals. They became increasingly inquisitive about the ship, and on countless occasions sidled up to the bow of the ship, each time producing a whole series of comments and noises from us all, as we tried to describe what we were in the presence of. Sadly, in the end we had to bid them farewell as we had to head on to our next destination. It was a memorable experience and we all realized that we were privileged indeed to have experienced something not often seen.
A little later we were sailing through the tricky English Strait, offering us many views of columnar basalt as part of islands or rocky outcrops. From there we entered the Bransfield Strait and headed on a more southerly course – with Greenwich Island off on our starboard side – for Half Moon Island where we hope to make a landing during the afternoon.
Shortly after lunch we got our instructions to go ashore. Soon enough we were speeding across the water in the Zodiacs to the landing site and our first close-up view of penguins. After the briefing we headed up to the penguin rookery and spent the afternoon enjoying these remarkable birds as they went about the business of tending to their eggs or young chicks. The various rookeries are set between lovely lichen-strewn rocky outcrops and off in the background glaciers tumble down steep mountain slopes.
Others opted for the longer walk, and began their adventure at a different landing spot and headed off over round boulders up snowy slopes to an overview with wonderful views of the island and surrounding areas. Then down a slope to the water’s edge; a good number chose to descend the rapid way, sledging down, and this caused much laughter from both participants as well as observers.
Towards the end of the walk we came across some large Weddell seals hauled out on the snow and resting. It was a fitting end to the afternoon efforts. It has been a very special day and a tremendous start to our expedition in Antarctica.
