Caen, Bayeux and Honfleur
It was with some relief that we entered the mouth of the Orne at Ouistreham, exposed as it is to the northerly wind that had kept us out of Ostend the day before. After entering the sea lock, we are able to disembark guests wishing to visit Le memorial, known in full as The Memorial for Peace, which is undoubtedly the best museum dedicated to the Second World War in France. It succeeded magnificently in putting the events of D-Day – our agenda for tomorrow – into a broader context.
In the afternoon, the principal option was a visit to Bayeux to view the celebrated tapestry, a misnomer since this is actually an eleventh-century embroidery commemorating the successful Norman invasion of Britain by Duke William - henceforth known as William the Conqueror – in 1066. In Britain this invasion is probably the most famous date to be impressed on the national psyche, the last time that Britain was successfully invaded by an outside power. The irony of an invasion of Normandy in the other direction to liberate the French in 1944 was not lost on participants at the time. The Bayeux Tapestry is a remarkable primary source for mediaeval historians, revealing a wealth of information about boat-building, methods of warfare, period costume and many other fascinating details. After viewing the tapestry, we walked through the charming town in Sabbath stillness to the cathedral, a magnificent example of the art of Norman ecclesiastical architecture. Unlike Caen, which was almost entirely destroyed by allied bombing the Normandy invasion - the Abbaye aux Hommes which contains William the Conqueror’s tomb is an exception –Bayeux escaped destruction and stands today as a memorial to the pre-war charm of Normandy.
As an alternative to Bayeux, an optional visit to Honfleur had been arranged. This charming fishing part has much to offer the visitor. The old harbor is particularly picturesque and has been a favorite of artists for the past couple of centuries, their work displayed in The Eugène Boudin Museum. Also of interest is the remarkable wooden church of St Catherine, dating from the fourteenth century, which is the largest wooden church with a separate belfry in France.
