Nuuk, Greenland

During the morning the National Geographic Explorer sailed the waters once furrowed, in the late tenth century, by Viking transport or knarr ships on their way to establish the so called Western Settlement at a point located deep in the Godthaabs fjord. They were manned by members of a colonization expedition organized by the notorious Erik the Red, a major historical figure whose exploits are chronicled in one of the medieval Icelandic sagas. Approaching Nuuk, Greenland’s capital city, the sea mist lifted revealing an array of brightly colored houses and apartments. Following lunch we boarded coaches and in the company of local guides explored the town. Nuuk has a population of around 15,000 and is Greenland’s main harbor owing to the fact that the surrounding waters do not freeze during the colder winter months allowing for the arrival of large container supply ships belonging to its own local based fleet. Its principal industry is fishing with an emphasis on the export of shrimps.

The highlight of the afternoon for many was our visit to the cultural and historical museum which houses a number of the now famous Thule mummies. These were discovered in 1972 at the remote site of Qilakitsoq some 280 miles north of the Arctic Circle. This erstwhile winter encampment consisted of a number of stone and turf structures from which the inhabitants exploited a wide range of marine based mammals including seal, beluga, narwhal, polar bear and walrus. Reindeer and birds were also taken. A total of eight mummies had been placed in two separate stacks, one on top of each other beneath a rocky outcrop in the latter part of the fifteenth century. The remains included a six month old child who has become the iconographic representative for the group. The two brothers who made the discovery initially thought that this mummy was a doll. The others are of a young boy and five adult women, a number of which bore facial tattoos. The remains are remarkably well preserved. Owing to the consistently cold and dry conditions prevailing at the site the bodies were slowly mummified. These remarkable representatives of the ancient Thule culture are veritable ambassadors from the past, speaking to us through the treasure trove of information that has been gleaned through their scientific examination.

Late evening, with the steep rocks ablaze with the russet colors of sunset, a small party of guests and staff made a landing deep within the Godthaabs fjord in the heart of the area known as the Western Settlement. Shortly before heading back to the ship and with light fading a rectangular rock built structure with features typical of a Viking style longhouse was located. This discovery was an apt conclusion of a wonder filled day.